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  • Out of Stock FP Journe Resonance Anniversary Edition ROSE ROSEFP Journe Resonance Anniversary Edition 8

    F. P. Journe Résonance Anniversary

    SOLD

    This 40mm 18-carat rose gold Résonance forms part of the final generation, reference RTA (Anniversary), produced in 2019. The rather short production span stems from the reference essentially being both an Anniversary piece as well as a Farewell to the now iconic caliber 1499-1499.3.

    F. P. Journe – Pre Résonance 

    In 1982 François-Paul along with his uncle Michel Journe had the honour of restoring the then relatively unknown Breguet No. 3177 that featured two pendulums, according to François-Paul, not many people understood the logic of having two pendulums as opposed to a single one.

    Upon disassembling the clock, François-Paul quickly understood the principle intended by Breguet. The fascinating clock left a profound impact on the young François-Paul. At the age of just 25 years old, having recently just finished his first pocket watch (tourbillon), a curious François-Paul, then embarked on the journey of attempting to create his own version of the phenomenon. After a year and a half, the project ultimately ended up being labeled a ‘failure’ as the concept was simply not reliable. In hindsight, François-Paul admits that this was his second project and he did not possess the adequate experience to take on such a project. As the years passed by, the idea of failure was simply not an option, the fact that both Janvier and Breguet were able to achieve the phenomenon of résonance almost 200-300 years ago, at a time when technology and lubricants were limited, only drove François-Paul further in his quest. Naturally, François-Paul reembarked on a brave journey to be the first, not only to coin the term résonance (according to him) but to achieve this phenomenon in a wristwatch.

    F. P. Journe introduces the Résonance 

    First unveiled in 2000, the Chronomètre à Résonance represents one of the wildest challenges in the field of mechanical watches. This emblematic timepiece is a milestone in the constant research of the precision of the master watchmaker François-Paul Journe. According to Franćois-Paul, the phenomenon can be compared to a radio:

    “When you are looking for a channel on the radio, it crackles until the chosen wavelengths meet those of the transmitter: only then do they harmonise and begin resonating together”.

    The proximity of the balance wheels sit just 0.4mm apart from each other, each of the two balance alternately serves as an excited and resonator. When the two balances are in motion, they enter into sync due to the résonanceeffect and begin beating in opposition naturally. It is important to note that this harmony is possible only if the difference in frequency between them doesn’t exceed five seconds per day.

    What makes this reference all the more special is the fact that it pays tribute to the original reference (ref, R) and retains a form of symmetry between both subdials. Upon closer inspection, the subdial on the left-hand side represents a 24-hour display whereas the subdial on the right-hand side represents a 12-hour display, similar to that of the Ref RT (Résonance Trois). Both sets of subdials retain the classical steel-frame paired with silver guilloché, the blue font of the numerals appears to be unique to this reference. The classic blue steeled hands have remained consistent since the launch of the first reference (ref, R) and remain so in this particular reference (RTA). The power reserve found between both subdials also retains the classical scale of 0 to 40 hours. Below that, the dial signed F. P. Journe, Invenit et Fecit (Latin for ‘Invented and Made’), Chronometre A Resonance, the placement of this essentially remains unchanged from the very first reference (ref, R). The iconic Chronomètre à Résonance appears to have been one of F. P. Journe’s most successful designs as the reference remains largely unchanged in terms of the overall aesthetic.

    The movement

    This Chronomètre à Résonance forms part of the Souverain collection which features an 18-carat gold movement. The calibre 1499.3 is found in this particular example, this calibre is believed to have been produced from 2008 till 2019 and was eventually phased out in favor of the recently introduced calibre 1520. The 42-hour manual wound movement consists of 40 jewels and 299 parts and is finished with the classic Côtes de Genève which F. P. Journe is known to use throughout his movements. Additionally, the screw heads appeared to be polished and beveled, with chamfered slots.

    The Set

    This remarkable F. P. Journe – Chronomètre à Résonance, is accompanied by both its inner and outer boxes signed F. P. Journe, original warranty card, and cloth. 

    Brand: F.P. Journe
    Model: Chronomètre à Résonance
    Movement: Calibre 1499.3, Rose Gold
    Case Diameter: 40mm
    Year: 2019 (sold)
    Box & Papers: Full Set. 

  • ROGER DUBUIS HOMMAGE COLLECTIONROGER DUBUIS ANNUAL CALENDAR

    Roger Dubuis Hommage

     

    $15,500

    This 18-carat rose gold Roger Dubuis hommage annual calendar, reference H40 5739, is limited to just 28 examples and represents Dubuis’ tact for making the complicated look relatively simple.

    Independents

    The landscape of independents as we know it today can be attributed to a select group of watchmakers, such as Roger Dubuis.  At the time most talented watchmakers worked for larger brands as full-time watchmakers or freelance movement makers. Only a handful of personalities were able to found their own brands and carve out a market of their own. Dubuis was at the forefront of a renaissance-like change, founding his eponymous brand in 1995.

    Dubuis’ formation initially commenced with Longines in their after-sales department, thereafter Patek Philippe came calling. They identified Dubuis’ exceptional talent, which led to him joining the complications department whereby Dubuis was exposed to some of the most spectacular references made by Patek Philippe i.e. ref. 2499. Dubuis was slowly building a name for himself, similar to that of Svend Andersen who also worked at Patek Philippe and is the co-founder of AHCI – Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants. They would both go on to found their own respective brands. 

    Our Example

    This 40mm homage annual calendar encapsulates what the relatively young brand, Roger Dubuis, stood for. The source of inspiration behind Dubuis’ instantly recognisable designs, can be attributed to both a combination of experience at other prominent brands as well as unleashing the reins and allowing himself to pursue ‘freedom’. In turn, Roger Dubuis quickly gained appreciation amongst collectors and enthusiasts alike. Dubuis went to great lengths to ensure that Roger Dubuis offered an unparalleled Haute Horology, all his movements featured the Geneva Seal and the overall presentation of the watch was of a high standard, usually resulting in an extra solid gold case back, a nod to Patek Philippe. The Hommage collection houses some of Dubuis’ most iconic watches made since the brand was founded. 

    The Dial 

    The lacquered dial paired with applied 18-carat rose gold Breguet-styled numerals creates a subtle hint of contrast paired with refined elegance. The dual apertures found at 12 o’clock display the day and month underneath the dial is signed Roger Dubuis – horologer genevois. The slightly subdued sub-dial found at 6 o’clock is used for the day. At 6 o’clock the dial is signed “Bulletin d’Observatoire” indicating that this movement was tested for accuracy at the Besançon Observatory.

    The case does not possess flamboyant properties such as the Sympathie, which does take away from the fact that the overall case is finished to a high standard. The different facets found on the case generally contrast between brushed and polished finishes. The engraved sapphire case-back allows for the exquisite movement to be seen. Interestingly, the four hallmarks are found on each lug, similar to certain Patek Philippe references. The crown is signed Roger Dubuis.

    The Movement

    This iconic ref. H40 is powered by the Calibre RD 5739, the movement features 25 jewels. Interestingly, Roger Dubuis opted to have all his movements certified by the Poinçon de Genève, the hallmark found on the bridge that holds the balance wheel, mimicking Patek Philippe which was the only brand to have this seal at the time. Leaving no stone unturned, Dubuis could have easily settled to have his movements COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certified instead he opted to seek the ultimate seal of accuracy in the “Bulletin d’Observatoire”.

    Brand: Roger Dubuis
    Model: H40 Symapthie Annual Calendar
    Movement: RD 5739
    Case Diameter: 40mm
    Year: 1999
    Box & Papers: no box or papers

  • Out of Stock FP Journe BYBLOS Limited EditionFP Journe BYBLOS Limited Edition 5

    F. P. Journe Byblos

    SOLD

    The F. P. Journe Beirut boutique was officially opened on the 5th of September 2014 and marked the brand’s 10th boutique. To celebrate this milestone, the brand launched an entirely new reference called the Chonomètre Bleu Bylos, inspired by the Orient sun set in a Mediterranean blue sky. A total of 99 examples were made, 80 featured western Arabic numbers and 20 featured eastern Arabic numerals. 

    The Byblos is largely inspired by F. P. Journe’s best-seller, the Chonomètre Bleu, retaining the same dimensions 39mm x 8.30mm and iconic tantalum case. Byblos, a UNESCO world heritage site, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and was the cradle of the euro-Mediterranean civilisation. 

    A unique dial 

    The dial depicts the sun shining through the Mediterranean blue sky and features traits that are unique to this series. Most F. P. Journe dials are stamped with the logo, this particular reference makes use of the open-worked dial by having the logo engraved directly onto the movement. The dial or rather the movement is signed F. P pastedGraphic.pngOURNE, the ‘J” is inscribed in the Phoenician alphabet representing the letter ‘Yodh’. Pronounced «J», it symbolizes the hand, emphasising the importance of handcrafting in the F.P. Journe creations. The dial forgoes any mentioned of the usual ‘Invenit et Fecit’ which is replaced by ‘BYBLOS’. The Mediterranean blue cut-out features an hour circle as well as a minute track. Similarly, the delicately placed seconds register is finished in the same color. A majority of the dial is made up of guilloche and perlage found and at 3 o’clock the winding stem is visible along with part of the gear chain. The contrasting ivory white coloured stainless steel allows for the piece to be easily legible. 

    Movement

    The distinction between the manually wound and automatic movements can be divided into the following, Octa (automatic) and Souverain (manually wound). This manually wound 18-carat gold movement, calibre 1304, measures 3.75mm thick allowing for the overall dimensions of the Chonomètre Bleu Bylos to remain modest at 40mm x 8.30mm. The movement features twin barrels, similar to the classic configuration of precision watches, resulting in stable power transmitted to the movement. The architecture of the movement is visible through a sapphire case back, and most of the gear chain is visible thanks to the openwork dial.  The baseplate is decorated with perlage and meulé Soleil cotes and the screw heads are black polished. Each example is limited by a dedicated  serial number, XX/99-BYBLOS 

    This F. P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu Byblos comes with its original F. P. Journe boxes and certificate. 

    Brand: F. P. Journe
    Model: Chronomètre Byblos
    Movement: Caliber 1304
    Case Diameter: 40mm
    Year: 2014
    Box & Papers: Full Set  

  • A Lange Sohne DarthA Lange Sohne Darth 7

    A. Lange & Sohne Darth

     

    $86,500

    The A. Lange & Sohne – Lange 1 can be traced back to the re-birth of the brand in 1994, the flawless execution of the overall design meant that this particular reference would remain unchanged for the better part of 25 years. The overall design follows the rule of thirds, that being said at first glance the dial may seem obscure and unbalanced. The symmetry is found towards the center of the dial, the middle of the date window is on par with the start of the main sub-dial (hours and minutes). The central pinion for the hours and minutes is on par with the power reserve pinion.

    This specific reference 101.035 – Lange 1, Darth, was produced from 1999 to 2006. It features a 38.5mm platinum case paired with an elegant black dial, it also draws inspiration from its past heritage with the unusual white-on-black date discs.

    The Brand

    Saxony’s meteoric rise and fall lead to the eventual creation of A. Lange & Söhne, founded by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1845. The foundations of German watchmaking can be attributed to Lange and his mentor Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes. Sadly, the company A. Lange & Söhne was expropriated after World War II as a result the brand disappeared. In 1990, Walter Lange, Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s great-grandson, ventured to resuscitate the brand. For the second time, a watch manufactory named A. Lange & Söhne, was built from scratch in Glashütte. The brand is now known to have created some of the most appreciated complications in the industry through its unique design language and master engineering.

    The dial 

    The two subsidiary dials, used for the hours, minutes, and seconds are slightly sunken and feature a brushed finish which causes the sub-dials to seem off black. The faceted 18-carat white gold hands provide the perfect contrast and match those of the applied hour and minute makers. It also enhances the overall legibility of the reference. T

    The case

    The overall structure of the case may seem simple although it is believed that each case is separately finished, the tell tail being the angled lugs. The use of alternating finishes on the relatively well-sized case adds another element of complexity and matches that of the dial’s alternating finishes.

    This Lange 1 – Darth houses a manual-winding calibre L190.1 and boasts a 72-hour power reserve. The movement features traditional finishes as well as a beautiful hand-engraved balance cock.

    Brand: A. Lange & Sohne
    Model: 101.035
    Movement: L190.1 
    Case Diameter: 38.5mm
    Year: 200X
    Box & Papers: Full Set

  • DE BETHUNE DB28 TOURBILLONTOURBILLON DE BETHUNE DB028T

    De Bethune Tourbillon DB28

     

    $215,000

    The DB28 is one of the most revered references made by De Bethune and was awarded the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève “Aiguille d’Or” in 2011. This DB28TRS black gold tourbillon was originally introduced in 2013, it is believed that only 10 examples have been made to date. This particular reference balances the avant-garde vision of the brand by blending contemporary-classic artisanal watchmaking. 

    De Bethune 

    In 2002, De Bethune was founded by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet. Prior to that, Flageollet, co-founded THA society with François-Paul Journe, the company was tasked with creating movements for other notable brands. Watchmaking runs in Flageollet’s blood he represents the fourth generation of the Flageollet family to become a watchmaker. Since its inception De Bethune successfully respected traditions of old whilst being at the forefront of technical innovations, as a result, the brand boasts some of the most impressive calibres made to date. Apart from the impressive calibres, De Bethune does not shy away from the fusion of two different worlds, the Maestri Art DW5 Armilia and Dream Watch 6 are fine examples of the artisanal know-how tied into Haute horology.  

    This DB28TRS measures 42.60mm x 9.20mm and features patented De Bethune floating lugs polished in black zirconium. The contrasting rose gold bezel and black zirconium results in more emphasis on the dial. The depth of the dial is achieved by several different finishing methods. The base of the dial features Côtes De Bethune and hand snailed barrels, the majority of the dial is composed of black polished steel motion-work bridge. The skeletonise hand-polished stainless steel hands allow for the depth effect to remain undisturbed. The combination of the anthracite minutes ring and black hours ring with black mirror-polished steel markers makes the legibility of this particular reference convenient.

    At 6 o’clock the ultra-light De Bethune 30 second tourbillon in silicon and titanium tourbillon is found. The overall calibre is made of 282 parts and the movement beats at 4 Hz. The double barrels provide a 5-day power reserve, the indicator can be found on the back of the watch. The tourbillon features a silicon escape wheel encircled with a white gold ring, along with the classic De Bethune balance spring with flat terminal curve.

    This example is accompanied by its original box, warranty, loupe and pin buckle. 

    Brand: De Bethune
    Model: DB28TRS8ZN / S
    Movement: DB2019
    Case Diameter: 42.60mm x 9.20mm
    Year: 2017
    Box & Papers: Full Set  

  • DanielRoth EarlyRothDaniel REarly Dani

    Daniel Roth Time Only

     

    $18,500

    Inspired by Daniel Roth’s first time only, ref. C107, this elegant time-only piece includes a date function and centralised sweeping seconds. 

    It is believed that this specific reference S177 builds upon both past references C107 and C157, with the ambition of offering a variety of sizes for the time-only reference. This double-ellipse stainless steel Daniel Roth measures 35mm x 38mm in diameter. The unique shape of the modernized case along with the addition of the downward slopping lugs allows this Daniel Roth to offer unparalleled comfort on the wrist. The dial features a sharply executed pinstripe guilloché pattern, which complements the light, brushed chapter ring with Roman numerals. This particular reference was usually offered in contrasting color dials, however, this particular example features a monotone salmon dial. 

    The dial is signed “DANIEL ROTH” at 12 o’clock and “SWISS MADE” at 6 o’clock, and the individual number of the watch is placed on the case-back. Additionally, the outer dial features 9 luminova plots found above the roman numerals. Through the contrasting blue steeled hands the legibility of this specific reference is enhanced. 

    The Movement

    The automatic movement signed by Daniel Roth, is adjusted to five positions and features thirty-two jewels. The slim moment is made by Girard Perregaux, the GP 3000 was launched in 1994, the movement found in this Daniel Roth is the GP 3100. The use of ball bearings in movements requires lubrication which could provide a myriad of issues. To prevent these problems, Girard-Perregaux, in collaboration with a supplier, developed ball bearings, which eliminated any lubrication and increased the efficiency of the movement. Aesthetically, the calibre is finished to a high standard. The classic Côtes de Genève is found on both the 18-carat gold rotor as well as the base of the movement.

    Brand: Daniel Roth
    Model: Time Only
    Movement: GP3000
    Case Diameter: 35mmx 38mm
    Year: 1995
    Box & Papers: Box 

  • Daniel Roth Chronograph SalmonDaniel Roth Chronograph 2

    Daniel Roth Chronograph

     

    $21,000

    Daniel Roth founded his eponymous brand in 1989 and created some of the fascinating complications made to date, he was also instrumental in Breguet’s resurgence.

    The name Daniel Roth still causes furore amongst collectors for reasons that are known to most. In his quest to become a recognised watchmaker, Daniel Roth completed his technical apprenticeship in Nice, before moving to the epicenter of watchmaking, Vallée de Joux. The revered school in Le Sentier and a seven-year period with Audemars Piguet laid the foundations of Roth’s craft. When the Chaumet Brothers, the then owners of Breguet, were attempting to revamp and restore the glory days of Breguet, they turned to Daniel Roth. Before commencing his work at Breguet, Daniel Roth first went back to watch school in Le Sentier for a year to get a solid technical and academic base in complications and spent an entire year studying Breguet archives. Fourteen years later, Roth, not only brought back the glory days for Breguet, he created some of the most specular watches since Abraham Louis Breguet’s time.

    The end of the Chaumet tenure and allowed Daniel Roth to pursue ambitions of his own, in 1989, Daniel Roth decided to establish his own manufacture. The rise of the independents was almost renaissance like Roth was one of the pioneers in this newfound era of ‘freedom’, other honourable names such as Svend Andersen, Franck Muller, F. P. Journe, Roger Dubuis played a crucial role in allowing this movement to flourish. Interestingly, Roth was able to carve out his own design language that made most of his pieces instantly recognisable. There were subtle cues and nods to Breguet’s work in his designs although what made Roth’s instantly distinguishable was his double-ellipse case, the difference polished facets found on the case, and the unique construction of the case was ahead of its time.

    In 2001, the Daniel Roth brand was sold to the Bvlgari Group and eventually morphed under the name. This resulted in Daniel Roth losing the right to use his own name for his future project.

    Our Example

    This double-ellipse stainless steel Daniel Roth measures 41mm x 38mm in diameter and 11.40mm in thickness. The unique shape of the modernised case along with the addition of the downward slopping lugs allows this ‘large’ sized Daniel Roth to offer unparalleled comfort on the wrist. The dial features a sharply executed Salmon pinstripe guilloché pattern, which complements the light, brushed chapter ring with roman numerals. The time only function can be easily distinguished from the chronograph complication due to the variety of the hands. The sub-dials found at both 3 and 6 o’clock are solely used for the 30 minute and 12 hour chronograph counters, the larger anchor shaped hand found at 12 o’clock is used for the seconds, once the chronograph is activated. The use of arrow-shaped hands are used to indicated the hours and minutes and the sub-dial placed at the 9 o’clock marker is used as a 60-second counter. The dial is signed “DANIEL ROTH” at 12 o’clock and “SWISS MADE” at 6 o’clock, the individual number of the watch is placed on the case-back. Additionally, the outer dial features 12 silver plots found above the roman numerals.

    The Movement

    The automatic movement signed Daniel Roth, is adjusted to five positions and features thirty-one jewels. The calibre 400 is based off the legendary El Primero, it is argued that when the El Primero was first introduced it was ahead of its time, not only did it possess a fully integrated (non-modular) full rotor self-windering chronograph, it was also a high-frequency movement 36’000 vph and remained remarkably thin.

    Brand: Daniel Roth
    Model: 247.X.10
    Movement: Calibre 400, El Primero
    Case Diameter: 41mm x 38mm
    Year: 2001
    Box & Papers: Full Set 
  • BUY EARLY DE BETHUNE DB9 MOON PHASEDE BETHUNE MOONPHASE

    DE BETHUNE Early DB9

     

    $72,500

    This De Bethune reference DB09 was originally introduced in 2003 and features classical – contemporary bullet lugs. It is believed that only 10 examples were made in rose gold. This particular reference showcases De Bethune’s classical side with a clever take on the moon phase which has the ability to also showcase the 7-day power reserve. 

    De Bethune

    In 2002, De Bethune was founded by David Zanetta and Denis Flageolet. Prior to that, Flageolet, co-founded THA society with François-Paul Journe, the company was tasked with creating movements for other notable brands. Watchmaking runs in Flageollet’s blood he represents the fourth generation of the Flageolet family to become a watchmaker. Since its inception De Bethune successfully respected traditions of old whilst being at the forefront of technical innovations, as a result, the brand boasts some of the most impressive calibres made to date. Apart from the impressive calibres, De Bethune does not shy away from the fusion of two different worlds, the Maestri Art DW5 Armilia and Dream Watch 6 are fine examples of the artisanal know-how tied into Haute horology.  

    Our example

    This reference, DB9R, is undoubtedly inspired by the DB2 (time only) and DB3 (moon phase), the avant-garde design language was further enhanced after the introduction of these early references. The overall proportions of the case ooze elegance, despite measuring 42mm the ultra-thin nature of the movement allows the case to sit rather well. The ivory guilloché dial is finely executed, the dial is signed De Bethune at 6 o’clock. The contrast of the blue steeled hands places an added emphasis on the timekeeping function along with the moon phase. The Mediterranean blue Arabic numerals add a further element of depth. 

    This reference is powered by a La Joux-Perret more specifically the J4000. The movement boasts a 168-hour power reserve, the movement has been fully redecorated by De Bethune. 

    Brand: De Bethune
    Model: DB9R
    Movement: J4000
    Case Diameter: 42mm
    Year: 2003
    Box & Papers: Full Set
  • FRANCK MULLER CHRONOGRAPHEARLY FRANCK MULLER BUY PREOWNED FRANCK MULLER

    Franck Muller Chronograph

     

    $25,500

    Arguably Franck Muller’s trademark complication in its early days. The double-face chronograph was inspired by 19th-century pocket watches, as much of Mr. Muller’s work was. This particular reference, 3870 NA DF, encapsulates everything the brand stood for back in its heyday.  

    Franck Muller 

    The maverick Franck Muller was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Mecca of watchmaking to an Italian mother and Swiss father. At age of 15, he left La Chaux-de-Fonds to enroll at the Ecole d’Horlogerie de Genève. The highly gifted, Muller, was able to disassemble and reassemble movements with particular ease and successfully graduated from watchmaking school in 1978. The state of the watch industry from 1970-1980s was at its nadir, due to the Quartz revolution. Franck Muller, gained a stellar reputation for being one of the most gifted watch restorers, proudly working on some of the most historically important pocket watches and wristwatches for leading auction houses. In addition, several of the pieces found at the Patek Philippe museum were restored by Franck Muller.

    Early Days

    Subsequently, in 1991 Franck Muller and Vartan Sirmakes founded Franck Muller Watchland SA to which the Franck Muller “Master of Complications” brand belongs. 

    Nicolas Foulkes, an author, and authority on all things watches, interviewed Sir Elton John who encapsulated the dire state of men’s watches at the time …

    “Men’s watches were nice but they were boring. Suddenly Franck enabled men to go forward to more daring watches. Franck was always concerned with the inside, but the outside was beautiful too and the dials of the watches used different colours, and different design styles.”

    In a way, Franck Muller paved the way for others to follow suit.

    The Dial 

    The dial is a master class, usually, three register chronographs appear to be cramped and visually unpleasing due to the underlying movement. For the starters, the sub dials are sunken and feature golden chapter rings around them. The addition of concentric guilloche adds a further degree of depth to the sub dials. The sub dials found at both 3 and 6 o’clock are solely functional when the chronograph is activated, the sub dial found at 9 o’clock is used for the sweeping seconds. This is further distinguished by the contrasting blue steeled hands found on all three sub dials, note the 60 second sweeping hand features a prolonged hand. The middle of the dial features a satin-brushed finish, whereas the applied hour markers are placed onto a concentric guilloche ring. The dial’s periphery returns to the satin finish and features 5-minute intervals displayed in red. 

    The Movement: 

    The front of the watch features a classical and conventional chronograph, while the reserve dial contains a telemetre and tachymetre.  Together they give the chronograph maximum functionality without cluttering the well-executed dial. 

    The vast majority of Franck Muller daube-faced chronographs are automatic and powered by the Valjoux 7750, with only a small minority relying on the manually-wound Lemania cal. 1873, the same calibre found in the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. 

    Brand: Franck Muller
    Model: 3870 NA DF
    Movement: Lemania 1873
    FM Case Diameter: 40 MM

    Year: Circa 1998
    Box and Papers: Full Set

  • Out of Stock FP JOURNE OCTA LUNE BRASS MOVEMENT EARLY FP JOURNE WATCHESFP JOURNE OCTA LUNE BRASS MOVEMENT EARLY FP JOURNE WATCHES 6

    F. P. Journe Octa Lune Brass

    SOLD

    This brass 38mm platinum F. P. Journe Octa Lune was originally introduced in 2003 and features a highly coveted brass movement, calibre 1300.  This particular example was amongst the first 75 pieces to leave the manufacture, as confirmed by the 07X-03L serial number. Interestingly, in 2003 the Octa Lune was awarded the prestigious Favorite Men’s Watch award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).

    A Classic 

    At the time platinum cases could have one of three dial configurations yellow, pink or white gold. This combination of a platinum case paired with the shimmery textured 18k white gold dial is quintessentially F. P. Journe. The visible working screws found across the dial were once described by some as unfinished, today this design cue is ever-present in F. P. Journe’s offering and forms part of the brand’s design language.

    This particular example has aged well and displays no signs of excessive patina. Despite possessing similarities to the Réserve de Marche, the Octa Lune uses a lot more of the dial. The placement of the ‘Invenit et Fecit – F. P. Journe’ is moved to the upper sector of the dial between 9 – 12 o’clock, allowing for the focus to remain on the phase de lune, power reserve, and sub-dial that displays the time. 

    The movement

    The distinction between the manually wound and automatic movements can be divided into the following, Octa (automatic) and Souverain (manually wound). The Octa collection was introduced in 2001 with the introduction of the Octa Reserve de Marche, the caliber 1300 is the backbone of the entire automatic collection (till date). Unlike the marine chronometers the Octa collection, when fully wound, the power reserve reads “120” and will gradually display how many hours of power are left. Naturally, the movement is François-Paul’s unique creation, the ingenuity of the base caliber 1300, allowed him to integrate different complications within the movement whilst still retaining the proportions of the most ‘basic’ models.

    This, Octa Lune is fitted with caliber 1300, when fully wound, the Octa Lune delivers chronometric precision for 120 hours. The meter-long mainspring supplies an average 850gr of torque, limiting the loss in balance amplitude to 25% over the five-day period. Beyond that time, the watch will continue to go for another day or two, but the amplitude-loss no longer guarantees precision timekeeping.

    What makes this particular example all the more special is the highly coveted brass movement which was only in production from 1999-2003, subsequently, the 38mm cases were also phased out in 2015. From our knowledge, there are only a handful of such examples and we are proud to offer such an example.

    The Set

    This remarkable, F. P. Journe Octa Lune is accompanied with its original warranty card, original user manual, supporting paperwork, and original box.

    Brand: F. P. Journe
    Model: Octa Lune
    Movement: Caliber 1300, brass
    Case Diameter: 38mm
    Year: 2003 (sold)
    Box & Papers: Full Set. 
  • Out of Stock FP JOURNE OCTA CALENDRIER 38MM1 2

    F. P. Journe Octa Calendrier

    SOLD

    The Octa Calendrier was originally introduced in 2003 as the brand’s third automatic reference powered by calibre 1300. The Octa Calendrier was one of the first wristwatches that integrated an annual calendar with a large date and simultaneously maintained a 5-day power reserve. Between 2003 and 2004, the brand phased out brass movements in favour of an industry-first – movements entirely in 18k red gold and implemented the upgrade across all calibres then in production.

    Transitional 

    This particular 18-carat rose gold example would best be described as transitional between the brass and rose gold era. The overall layout of the dial remains identical to the original brass examples. The separate silver guilloche dial for the hours and minutes is held together by three screws found on the periphery of the steel bell-shaped frame, a general rule to go by is that the brass examples possess accentuated frames whereas the rose gold movement features a smoother shape. This particular example is powered by calibre 1300.2 (18-carat gold movement) although the dial is from the brass era. In addition to that the pairing of a rose gold case and the white gold dial is thought to be rather rare in the realm of F. P. Journe. 

    The apertures found at 8 and 10 o’clock display the day and month. The retrograde date function is visibly pleasing as the entire date frame hugs the outer part of the dial, allowing for an undisturbed view of the timekeeping portion of the dial.  At the time this was said to be F. P. Journe’s best seller for the automatic collection. 

    The stark contrast of the blue steeled hands is a trait found on F. P. Journes apart from boutique editions. The dial is signed F. P. Journe – Invenit et Fecit Latin for invented. 

    Case 

    At the time all case sizes found in the Octa collection measured 38mm x 10.6mm, in light of the transition from brass to rose gold movement case numbers were gradually updated. The brass era’s serial numbers would be composed of a three-digit number followed by the case year of production, I.e, XXX-03Q, we believe this was stopped towards XXX-05Q, from then onwards all cases simply feature an individual serial number (XXX-Q). This particular example is one of the last case numbers to feature this trait. 

    Movement

    At the time this was the most complicated F. P. Journe found in the Octa collection. François-Paul managed to integrate the annual calendar complication into the calibre 1300 whilst still maintaining the exact same proportions of the movement, 30mm x 5.70mm. Despite the tremendous energy requirements for the ‘flick’ of the date, day and month, the movement is still capable of achieving a 120-hour power reserve. 

    The timepiece was completely overhauled by F. P. Journe in November 2020.

    Brand: F. P. Journe
    Model: Octa Calendrier – Transitional
    Movement: Calibre 1300.2 Rose Gold
    Case Diameter: 38mm
    Year: 2005
    Box & Papers: Orignal box and certificate  

  • Out of Stock MBFxMoser LM101 Limited EditionMBFxMoser LM101 Limited Edition 1

    MB&F LM101 x Moser

    SOLD

    This MB&F LM101 x Moser funky blue is limited to just 15 examples. This particular reference marked the first time both brands collaborated on a project. Both Maisons are Swiss based, independently owned, and driven by artisanal watchmaking. For the past ten years, Moser’s sister company Precision Engineering AG has supplied MB&F’s balance springs, behind the scenes.

    The dual collaboration 

    In usual instances, collaborations can be a tricky task, especially in independent watchmaking. Certain past collaborations have ruined relationships and the end product was brought about through a compromise by one party. However, Maximilian Büsser’s brainchild at Harry Winston, the Opus Series, led him to create his own brand in MB&F – Maximilian Büsser and friends. The brand has had many successful collaborations, although never along side another brand; so this marked the first time an MB&F was co-signed along with another brand.

    Maximilian Büsser says: “When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance-spring, the Moser fumé dials, and the Concept watch series. Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on the condition that he could also borrow elements from our machines. After an initial moment of surprise, I gave it some thought. Being 50% Indian and 50% Swiss, I am firmly convinced that mixing DNA creates interesting results, so why not try the experiment in watchmaking? I therefore agreed and suggested that he borrow features from the FlyingT model, which is particularly dear to my heart.”

    Inspiration 

    The simplistic nature of the Legacy Machine 101 would provide the base of the concept watch. A minimalistic design was chosen to accentuate the funky blue dial which was made by Moser & Cie, the dial remains unsigned and features no traditional hour, minute, or power reserve markers. The domed crystal and refined bezel allow the funky blue dial to express all of its alternating hues, which range from a sky-blue to a purple glaze.

    In total four dial colors were made and each series was limited to 15 examples, a nod to MB&F’s 15-year anniversary. To top it off the series was made in stainless steel, this material is rarely used in MB&F’s usual offering. 

    Movement 

    As impressive as the case and overall design of the LM101 is, the movement is equally if not more impressive. The balance wheel is fitted with a double balance spring produced by Precision Engineering AG. According to MB&F the use of the double balance spring helps with the displacement of the point of gravity undergone by each spring as it expands is corrected, significantly improving precision and isochronism in a continuous quest for perfection.

    Unlike the base movement of the Legacy Machine 101, of which the finishes were determined by co-creator Kari Voutilainen, the aesthetics of the calibre that powers the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser is more contemporary, with a subtle NAC treatment to enhance its beauty.

    Brand: MB&F
    Model: LM101 Funky Blue x Moser 
    Movement: HMC810 
    Case Diameter: 40 x 16 mm
    Year: 2021
    Box & Papers: Full Set

  • Out of Stock FP Journe Tourbillon Souverain TNFP Journe Tourbillon Souverain TN 1

    F. P. Journe Tourbillon

    SOLD

    This quintessential second-generation 40mm platinum Tourbillon Souverain paired with an 18-carat rose gold dial is a configuration that is particularly sought after. The second-generation, reference TN, builds upon its predecessor reference T, with the addition of dead seconds and a new calibre 1403. This particular reference was produced from 2004 to 2018 and replaced by the third-generation Vertical Tourbillon.

    The Complication that set the sails 

    The Tourbillon complication holds a special place in the history of F. P. Journe. The likes of both George Daniels and Abraham Louis Bréguet inspired F. P. Journe to create his own tourbillon, it took five arduous years to complete his first tourbillon pocket watch, signed F. P. Journe – A Paris. Today, this pocket watch marks one of the most important milestones in François-Paul’s career and set him on his path to becoming an independent watchmaker. To build a tourbillon from scratch was simply uncommon back then. In 1999, after having established Montres Journe SA, the brand F. P. Journe presented its first wristwatch which was a Tourbillon Souverain a Remontoir d’egalité. 

    A late partner of the brand, Gino, vividly recollects the warm reception that the Tourbillon generated …   

    “It was simply amazing, everyone found it beautiful, it was original, following the rules of Bréguet and it was a question of accuracy … the remontoir d’egalité was unique the tourbillon would work even if you only had 30 minutes of power reserve. It was quite a success” 

    Our example

    This second-generation 40mm platinum F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain (TN) features a textured ‘grainy’ rose gold dial, in addition, the separate silvery guilloché dial for the hours, minutes and seconds would be best described as ‘matte’ white. The dial remains in immaculate condition, showing virtually no signs of oxidation. The combination of the grey platinum case paired with a 18-carat rose gold dial is a combination that is particularly sought-after. 

    The dial is signed ‘F. P. Journe – Invenit et Fecit’ between 10-2 o’clock. The power reserve is found just above the tourbillon cage and sub-dial, once fully wound the movement reads 0, paying homage to marine chronometers. The second-generation tourbillon (ref, TN) can be distinguished from the first generation tourbillon (ref, T) due to the addition of the dead seconds found at 6 o’clock, the dial is also signed ‘Remontoir d’Egalité avec Seconde Morte’. 

    The movement

    The distinction between the manually wound and automatic movements can be divided into the following: Octa (automatic) and Souverain (manually wound). 

    The Tourbillon Souvain is powered by caliber 1403 naturally, the movement is François Paul’s unique creation. The power reserve of the entire souverain collection is based on antique marine chronometers, the power reserve indicator shows the number of hours elapsed since the watch was last wound. Therefore, when fully wound the indicator reads “0” as it has been zero hours since last wound. In his quest for chronometric performance, François-Paul invented his own interpretation of a constant force mechanism named the remontoir d’egalité, the use of the remontoir – a constant force device – can be compared to a dam that controls the flow of water and provides constant energy to the blades of a turbine. In effect, the remontoir regulates the power to the escapement to attain greater stability in rate. The adjustable inertia weights make it possible to optimize the amplitude of oscillation; the four-armed balance beats at a frequency of 21’600 v/h.

    The Set

    This remarkable, F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain is accompanied by both its inner and outer boxes, warranty card, F. P. Journe cloth, and its original strap.

    Brand: F. P. Journe
    Model: Tourbillon Souverain (TN)
    Movement: Caliber 1403, manual
    Case Diameter: 40mm
    Year: 2005 (sold)
    Box & Papers: Full set.

  • Out of Stock Cartier tank a Guichet Platinum 1997Cartier tank a Guichet Platinum 7

    Cartier Tank Guichet

    SOLD

    Parisian Jeweller, Cartier, is known to have made some of the most captivating watches by integrating fascinating shapes within cases, challenging the usual status quo of classical round watches. One of Cartier’s most iconic collections is the Tank which was originally designed by Louis-Joseph Cartier, the grandson of Louis-François Cartier, in 1917. The inspiration behind such a bold design is thought to have come from the Renault FT-17 tank, according to various sources the initial prototype was donated to General John Pershing the commander of the American Expeditionary Forces in Europe during WWI. The visionary, Louis Cartier, was able to ensure that Cartier’s were somewhat instantly recognisable through a consistent design code in the form of the railway style minute track, roman numerals, blue steel Breguet hands and the cabochon-cut sapphire crown. 

    The birth of the Tank à Guichets

    The Tank à Guichets was originally introduced in 1928 and undoubtedly inspired by the Tank Louis Cartier. The case mimics that of the Tank Louis Cartier although a sheet of brushed platinum covers the majority of the dial. The two small Guichets (French for Windows) are used to tell the time, the upper window is used for the jumping hours and the lower scale is used for the minutes. The early Tank Guichets are thought to be exceptionally rare. The reference was largely nonexistent in Cartier’s catalogue up until 1996, whereby Cartier released a total of six Tank à Guichets split across three platinum and three yellow gold examples, they are easily distinguishable due to the unique positioning of the crown at 12 o’clock. In rather quick succession, Cartier reintroduced a platinum limited edition of 150 examples for their 150th Anniversary in 1997, the cabochon-cut crown is now placed at 3 o’clock.  

    Our Example

    This example of the Tank à Guichet was originally introduced in 1997 and is limited to 150 examples. The platinum case measures 27.5 mm. x 40 mm and sports the traditional cabochon-cut crown at 3 o’clock. This particular reference does not form part of the CPCP collection but it is one of the references that marked the brand’s 150th anniversary. Most examples of the 150th anniversary feature a ruby cabochon in the crown. The Tank à Guichet does not feature an open case back on any of its variants. The platinum case back is signed Cartier Paris, 1847-1997, Mécanique followed by the four traditional hallmarks and Made in France. 

    The Movement

    The Tank Guichet is powered by a manual wound 9752 MC, based on a Piaget ébauche, more specifically the 430P. The movement is revered for its thinness measuring just 2.1mm in height and features a respectable power reserve of roughly 40 hours. 

    Brand: Cartier
    Model: Tank à Guichets, 2817
    Movement: 9752 MC
    Case Diameter: 27mm x 40mm
    Year: 2006
    Box & Papers: Watch Only 

  • Out of Stock FP JOURNE CENTIGRAPHE CALIBRE 1506FP JOURNE CENTIGRAPHE CALIBRE 1506 8

    F. P. Journe Centigraphe

    SOLD

    In 2007, F. P. Journe decided to cease production of the Octa Chronographe in favour of the mind-boggling ‘Centigraphe’. The word chronograph means ‘time writer’, whereas the word ‘Centigraphe’ means ‘100 writer’. Such is the superiority of the ‘Centigraphe’, in 2008 this reference won the highly recognized ‘L’Aiguille d’Or award at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve). The birth of ‘Centigraphe’ can be traced back to François-Paul’s passion for motorsports as well as his friendship with Jean Todt (ex-executive director of Scuderia Ferrari and current FIA president).

    This example of the Centigraphe features a 40mm rose gold case paired with a rose gold dial, a configuration that is believed to be rather rare. The industry norm follows a similar path whereby, a given brand creates a new caliber and only then conceptualises the dial, François-Paul, works the other way round. One could argue that the design of this dial paved the way for Francois Paul to explore other design-related avenues, the then classical design mainly consisted of a smaller silver guilloché sub-dial (bell shaped) for the hour, minutes and seconds. This dial features many intricate details such as the three main sub-dials, the first found between the 9-11 o’clock markers read “SPR 1” (seconds per round) measures up to 100th of a second, and the second found between the 1-3 o’clock markers reads “SPR 20” (seconds per round) revolves once every twenty seconds and third found between 5-7 o’clock markers reads “MPR” (minutes per round) measures up to ten minutes. The use of the metallic holder around the sub-dials creates depth within the dial, additionally, the guilloché found on the three sub-dials enhances the stepped dial effect. The use of red font allows the user to take note of the time scale, whereas the black lacquer font enables the use of the tachymeter scale in km/h.

    The Centigraphe remained in production till 2018 and apart from the anniversary of each boutique’s 10th year anniversary the piece will no longer be made. The Centigraphe Souverain collection supports the ICM (Institute for Brain and Spinal cord disorders), each sale of the piece from the factory level constituted a donation to the institution. The prototype CTS (no. 000) was sold at auction in 2012 with all proceeds donated to the ICM.

    Movement

    The distinction between the manually wound and automatic movements can be divided into the following: Octa (automatic) and Souverain (manually wound). The manually wound Centigraphe Souverain caliber 1506 is manufactured entirely from 18k rose gold. It is constructed with 50 jewels, from our research there are certain examples that have 49 jewels, an update to the movement might be the cause of this. The in-line lever escapement is unique for several reasons, firstly, the barrel (also found in the Grande Sonnerie) is patented due to its nature of providing two separate sources of energy without compromising the amplitude of the timekeeping. In essence, the chronograph has a separate gear train, driven directly from the mainspring, when not used it isolates itself from the escapement.

    Secondly, the use of the foudroyant allows for the 1/100th of a second to be recorded, despite only beating at 3 Hz (21’600 vph). Thirdly, the rather unique rocker to engage the chronograph has been successfully patented by F. P. Journe, the rocker allows for the user to use the function as a start, stop and reset tool. François-Paul noticed that the only error whilst activating and deactivating the chronographe, is the human error, it is virtually impossible to start and stop a chronographe according to real-time events without a slight delay. The unique rocker also attempts to solve that ‘issue’.

    The Set

    This 40mm F. P. Journe Centigraphe comes with an original F. P. Journe alligator strap, a corresponding rose gold buckle and is also accompanied with the original inner and outer boxes. The warranty card also forms part of the set.

    Brand: F. P. Journe
    Model: Centigraphe
    Movement: Caliber 1506, rose gold
    Case Diameter: 40mm

  • Out of Stock Andersen Geneva Erotica AutomonAndersen Geneva Erotica Automon 6

    Andersen Genève Eros

    SOLD

    Svend Andersen is arguably one of the most important independent watchmakers and is often referred to as “the watchmaker of the impossible’. Born in 1942 in Denmark Andersen’s fascination for all things mechanics led him to pursue a career in watchmaking, although Andersen often cites that he became a watchmaker by chance. Andersen’s first career breakthrough dates back to 1963-1965 whereby he joined Gübelin Geneva and was responsible for the after-sales service. Five years later In 1969 at the Montres et Bijoux exhibition in Geneva Andersen presented a world premiere clocks in bottles. Each component of the clock had to be inserted via the bottleneck and required unique tools to be mounted inside the bottle. Simply put the creation was brilliant and it was set and rewound via the cork. Shortly after, Patek Philippe came calling and offered Andersen a position at the grand complications workshop. The experience proved to be invaluable for the creation of his next venture. 

    The importance of Andersen’s thoughtfulness potentially saved certain savoir-faire from being lost. His appreciation of cases led him to create and transfer the knowledge to future generations. Andersen co-founded the AHCI – Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants – in 1985 and opened doors for many, for example, he played a pivotal role for upcoming independent watchmakers such as Franck Muller to find their footing in this brave new world. The orders for peculiar cases kept flowing at the same time clients were now asking Andersen to create unique pieces for them with his signature. His associate Perret did not want to part take in making wristwatches and this led Andersen to collaborate with revered case maker Jean-Pierre Hagmann. In 1989 Andersen delivered his first wristwatch signed ‘Andersen Genève’ which was inspired by Louis Cottier. 

    An Italian collector approached Andersen to explore the possibility of incorporating the erotic automaton function into a wristwatch. As a result, the eros collection was born. On the surface, this 38.5mm rose gold Andersen Geneve oozes elegance and simplicity. The contrast of the dauphine hands and stark white lacquered allows for the emphasis to be placed on the timekeeping requirements. The numerals are finished in typical Andersen style. 

    The 18-carat yellow case measures 12mm in thickness and wears well due to the elongated lugs. The case features intricate details such as the bevelling on the lugs and concaving polished bezel. The pusher found at 8 o’clock is used to activate the automaton based on Greek Mythology which was inspired by a drawing that dates back to 500 years ago. The double-barrel movement allows for the automaton to move without any lags or stutters. 

    Brand: Andersen Genève  
    Model: Eros – Greek Mythology 
    Case Diameter: 38.50mm x 12mm 
    Year: 1998
    Box & Papers: Original Papers 

  • Out of Stock Laurent Ferrier Stainless Steel Travel Time5

    Laurent Ferrier Traveller Boréal


    SOLD

    Founded in 2008 Laurent Ferrier took the watchmaking world by storm with the introduction of a tourbillon escapement with two balance springs mounted at 180°, in quick succession the brand was awarded one of the most prestigious awards in watchmaking (Grand Prix GPHG for the Best Men’s Watch circa 2010) for the Galet Classic Tourbillon. Laurent Ferrier spent about 40 years honing his craft at Patek Philippe before founding his eponymous brand. 

    This stainless steel Galet Traveller Boréal was originally released in 2016. This iteration of the Galet Traveller featured a first-time stainless steel case along with a vibrant Superluminova dial making this example relatively more affordable at the time. The sector dial is inspired from the 1930s and the complication may have been inspired by the Patek Philippe’s circa 1950. The window found at 9 o’clock displays the ‘home’ time zone the pushers found at 7 and 10 o’clock allow for the hour hand to be set relatively quickly and efficiently. The traditional hour and minute hand are usually set to the current time zone wherever that may be. The window at 3 o’clock is used for the date. 

    The dial would best be described as a contemporary slate grey sector inspired dial. The dial features intricate details that might go unnoticed. For starters the discs which display both the home time and date are finely frosted and shimmery, the numerals are then applied to the wheels. The periphery of the dial features discrete minute markers as well as hour markers. The circular track features Superluminova, in a similar fashion the polished hour and minute hands also feature matching Superluminova. The sunken sub-dial found at 6 o’clock is used for the seconds. At 12 o’clock the dial is signed Laurent Ferrier – Geneva and at 6 o’clock Swiss. 

    This 41mm Galet Traveller Boréal houses the venerable self-winding Calibre LF230.01. Like several Laurent Ferrier calibres, this calibre has a micro-rotor with and a double direct-impulse natural escapement. Laurent Ferrier is also known for its use of silicon which is used in this movement for the pallet-lever due to its lightness and its self-lubricating properties. The movement’s finishing includes traditional côtes de Genève, circular graining on the main plate, manually chamfered angles and polished screw heads. 

    Brand: Laurent Ferrier
    Model: Galet Traveller Boréal
    Movement: LF230.01
    Case Diameter: 41mm
    Year: 2016
    Box & Papers: Full Set 

  • PATEK PHILIPPE 3970 SECOND GENERATIONPATEK PHILIPPE 3970 SECOND GENERATION 2

    Patek Philippe 3970E 2nd Gen

     

    $190,000

    The importance of the perpetual calendar chronograph in the history of Patek Philippe cannot be understated. Some of Patek Philippe’s most important references such as the 1518 and 2499 house the perpetual calendar chronograph. It is estimated that the reference 2499, produced from 1950 to 1985, was produced in rather modest quantities (349 examples).

    The 3970 represented a turning point for grande complications at Patek Philippe, prior to this both references, 1518 and 2499 combined production stood at around 630 examples. Despite its rather long production, 1986-2004, the reference 3970 can be segmented into four different generations, this particular example ref. 3970E forms part of the second generation and is believed to have been produced in 1989 and sold the same year. The production span of the second generation is thought to have started in 1986 and eventually passed out in 1991. The addition of the E (étanche, French for waterproof)  in reference was largely due to the fact that the case was now waterproof. This was achieved by replacing the snap-on caseback  in favor of the screw-down caseback.

    The second generation is similar to that of the first, with minor changes such as the lack of contrast between the sub-dials which is usually found in the first generation. This reference was made available in four metals, white gold, yellow gold, rose gold and platinum.  Our example features an 18-carat yellow gold case with deep and crisp hallmarks found on the outer lugs. 

    Dial

    The opaline silvered dial features baton-shaped yellow gold indexes.  The dual apertures found at 12 o’clock just above the ‘Patek Philippe Geneve’ are used for both the day and month. The sub-dial found at 3 o’clock is used for the 30-minute chronograph as well as the leap year indicator. At 9 o’clock the sub-dial is used for the 60-second counter and a day-night indicator. The day and moon phase indicators are found at 6 o’clock. The overall aesthetic of the 3970 oozes elegance and the lack of a tachymeter allows for an undisturbed view of the dial. The 36mm case wears well due to its elongated lugs as well as the heft of the watch. There are four external pushers found on the periphery of the case, these can be used to set the complication.

    The overall condition of the dial remains in excellent condition, the sapphire glass does feature a slight mark. 

    Movement

    This second-generation Patek Philippe 3970E is powered by calibre CH27-70Q. This very reference also signified the transition from Valjoux based movements to Lemania based movements. The marked the first lemania movement to be found in a Patek Philippe wristwatch, the iconic calibre 2320. Patek Philippe completely modified the movement by adding the perpetual calendar module. The movement is finished to a high standard and features different finishing techniques throughout the calibre.

    The case number mentioned in the extract is 2.860.4XX, as well as the movement number 875.4XX both, correspond with the serial numbers found inside the watch. The 18 -carat gold pin buckle found on this particular example features a spelling error ‘Patek Phillipe’ instead of the usual ‘Patek Philippe’ 

    Brand: Patek Philippe
    Model: 3970E
    Movement: CH27-70Q
    Case Diameter: 36mm / Yellow Gold
    Year: 1989
    Box and Papers: Extract  dated 2020, original box and pusher. 

  • Out of Stock Daniel Roth Papillon frontDaniel ROTH

    Daniel Roth Papillon

    SOLD

    The Papillon was created to commemorate Daniel Roth’s 10th Anniversary. It is estimated that only 250 examples were made, 110 in white gold, 110 in rose gold and a further 30 in platinum. By the time this reference was introduced, circa 1998, Daniel Roth’s overall involvement was limited, with that being said, it is believed that Daniel Roth played a role in designing this anniversary piece which would subsequently be his last as he then went on to found his new brand, Jean Nicole Daniel. 

    This white gold double-ellipse case measures 35mm x 38mm in diameter, the case structure is compelling due to the nature of the blend between a circular and rectangular case. The addition of the downward slopping lugs allows this particular reference to sit comfortably on the wrist. The polished stepped bezel accentuates the marvellous dial. 

    The overall design language found on this particular reference encapsulates the raison d’être of Daniel Roth – La Montre Objet d’Art. The jumping hour is found at 12 o’clock, the seconds are found at the centre of the dial and the minutes make up most of the dial. Each function is made legible through alternative methods, the jump hour is digital and relatively straightforward, the minutes are made legible through two retractable hands and the sweeping seconds use a traditional hand. The dial is signed by Daniel Roth on a wing-shaped frame similar to that of a bird or butterfly. The slate grey dial features two alternate guilloche finishes, the more traditional Clous de Paris is found on most of the dial whereas the central guilloche resembles Vieux Panier (old basket). As a result of the alternate guilloche patterns paired with a brushed minute and seconds marker, the dial achieves a sense of profound depth. 

    Similar to many Daniel Roths of this era the Papillon is based on a Girard-Perregaux calibre 3000. The rotor reads 10 Years, Daniel Roth followed by the dedicated serial number of the watch 0XX/110, which is also found on the case back. The movement is finished to a high standard with both perlage and cotes de Geneve found on the èbauche. 

    This set comes with its original inner box which is also signed 0XX/110, along with its original warranty card stamped and signed by The Hour Glass circa 2000. 

    Brand: Daniel Roth
    Model: Papillon – 10th Anniversary
    Movement: GP 3000
    Case Diameter: 35mm x 38mm
    Year: 2020 (sold)
    Box & Papers: Exceptional full set. 

  • Out of Stock DE BETHUNE DB028 GRAND BLEU front1

    De Bethune DB028 GS Bleu

    SOLD

    This De Bethune GS better known as the grand sport was originally introduced in 2015, this reference pivoted away from the classical nature of the pre-existing DB028 references and was technically the first De Bethune made available on a rubber strap. The two stand-out references of the collection lie in the DB028 Digital and the DB028 Skybridge. In typical De Bethune fashion, the brand focused on improving the existing DB028 Grand Sport by successfully integrating a mechanical dynamo that powers four LED lights. 

    It is estimated that only 43 examples were made in grade 5 titanium and the reference has been discontinued although the movement is still used in other iterations. The titanium case measures 44mm x 12.80mm and is water-resistant up to 100m, making this the ideal dive watch. The spring-loaded lugs feature a semi-skeletonized look and the contrast of the black frame offers a compelling contrast to the usual lugs. 

    The Dial

    The overall depth of the dial is rather impressive along with the contrasting finishes to the dial. The power reserve is found at 9-10 o’clock the 5-day power reserve is denoted by blocks on the gauge similar to a fuel reserve. The uniquely shaped hour and minutes hands are filled with a specially created lumanova made in collaboration with Black Badger. The triple pare-chute shock-absorbing balance wheel is found at 6 o’clock. 

    The somewhat discrete rotating bezel is well concealed, once turned the crystal with the numerals also rotates. The color of this crystal is mesmerizing, it manages to showcase so many different hues of blues to a nearly dark black. The watch can be wound and set from the screwed-down crown at 12 o’clock, the rivets found on the crown make the watch easy to wind and set. The pusher to activate the LED lights is found at 6 o’clock on the mid-tier of the case. In principle, the concept of the dynamo, converting mechanical energy into electrical energy, originates from old bicycle lamps. The governor at 4 o’clock is responsible for extracting the energy from the mainspring, our friend SJX breaks it down step by step, here. 

    The calibre DB2080 is composed of 400 parts and 32 jewels and features centralised sweeping seconds. This calibre adds another impressive milestone to the relatively young company. 

    Brand: De Bethune
    Reference: DB28GSV2AN
    Measurements: 44mm x 12.80mm
    Set: Complete 2020

     

  • Out of Stock FP Journe Tourbillon Regency Limited EditionFP Journe Tourbillon Regency Limited Edition 1

    F. P. Journe Régence

    SOLD

    Originally introduced between 2016-2017, the tourbillon nouveau (TN) régence circulaire was limited to just 10 examples.

    The Tourbillon

    Some 200 years ago Abraham-Louis Bréguet successfully patented his revolutionary mechanism, the tourbillon regulator. Centuries later, a determined but then unknown watchmaker by the name of François-Paul Journe tackled the challenge of improving Breguet’s landmark invention, aided by a historically important book, The Art of Breguet by legendary English horologist George Daniels. 

    It took five arduous years for François-Paul to complete his first tourbillon pocket watch, which was entirely hand-made and featured with twin barrels along with a détent escapement – and proudly signed “F. P. Journe – à Paris” on the dial. 

    Upon the founding of the brand, F. P. Journe in 1999, the first wristwatch presented by the brand was a Tourbillon Souverain a Remontoir d’egalité. A late partner of the brand, Gino, vividly recollects the warm reception that the Tourbillon generated …   

    “It was simply amazing, everyone found it beautiful, it was original, following the rules of Bréguet and it was a question of accuracy … the remontoir d’egalité was unique, the tourbillon would work even if you only had 30 minutes of power reserve. It was quite a success” 

    Following the successful launch of the Tourbillon (ref T.) and the sales that followed thereafter allowed  F. P. Journe’s initial ambition of creating all their movements in 18-carat gold to be realised. Between 2003 and 2004, the brand phased out brass movements in favour of an industry-first – movements entirely in 18k red gold and implemented the upgrade across all calibres then in production. 

    Unlike other references, the brass-movement Tourbillon Souverain (ref. T) was entirely discontinued in favour of a completely new tourbillon, the Tourbillon Nouveau (ref. TN). The newly-introduced cal. 1403 in the “TN” integrated a seconde morte, or deadbeat seconds into the constant force mechanism. 

    For more information on the production of the reference TN, we would encourage you to read this. 

    Our example

    This 40mm rose tourbillon souverain régence circular was originally introduced in 2016. The inspiration of this reference dates back to the International Jewellery & Watch Exhibition in Bahrain circa 2001. This would mark the first time the brand would explore hand-engraved dials in the form of the Labyrinth and Régence motifs. Upon the discontinuation of the reference T in 2003, the newly introduced reference TN (tourbillon nouveau) remained in production until 2018. 

    Throughout the production of the reference TN, several limited editions were made, most feature semi-precious stones or different coloured dials. The introduction of this specific reference marked the return of engraved dials. The inspiration for the hand-engraved pattern originates in the 18th century, which François-Paul considers the golden age of time measurement. Modeled on the geometrical patterns popular during the Regency period, the Régence Circulaire motif pays homage to the clockmakers and artisans of the 18th century in both style and execution.

    It is estimated that a total of 20 Regency examples were made, 10 with a rose gold case paired with a hand-engraved white gold dial, and the other 10 features a 40mm rose gold case paired with a rose gold dial. 

    The Dial 

    The base of the dial is 18-carat white gold, similar to a canvas, the engraver sketches the motif onto the dial. Through the use of alternate sized burins the engraver begins etching out parts of the dial and creating depth by applying alternate pressure. To hone the skills required to make such a dial is hard to come by. There is virtually no margin for error, the smallest lapse in concentration or pressure asserted by the artisan can result in having to restart from scratch. In the event the dial is completed and passes the rigid quality control measures, it is then polished by another artisan. Each meticulously finished hand-engraved dial possesses unique features making no dial identical to one another. The layout of the dial remains unchanged, the upper sector of the dial is signed F. P. Journe – Invenit et Fecit and the lower quadrant is signed Remontoir d’Egalité avec Seconde Morte. 

    The warmth of the 40mm rose gold case paired with the hand-engraved 18-carat white gold dial offers a degree of contrast that is not found on the rose on rose examples. 

    The movement 

    In his quest for chronometric performance, François-Paul invented his own interpretation of a constant force mechanism named the remontoir d’egalité, the use of the remontoire – a constant force device – can be compared to a dam that controls the flow of water and provides constant energy to the blades of a turbine. In effect, the remontoire regulates the power to the escapement to attain greater stability in rate. The adjustable inertia weights make it possible to optimize the amplitude of oscillation; the four-armed balance beats at a frequency of 21’600 v/h.

    This particular example is powered by calibre 1403 which integrated a seconde morte, or deadbeat seconds into the constant force mechanism. 

    Brand: F. P. Journe
    Model: Tourbillon Souverain Régence (TN)
    Movement: Caliber 1403, manual
    Case Diameter: 40mm
    Year: 2016 (sold)
    Box & Papers: Full set 

  • Out of Stock KUDOKE KALIBRE1 DRESDENKudoke German Made 10

    Kudoke 2
    Kalibre 1

    SOLD

    Stefan Kudoke founded his brand in 2004. Kudoke’s career path commenced with training as a watchmaker at jeweler watchmaker Hoffmann in Frankfurt and eventually at Glashütte in Saxony. Having amassed a wealth of horological experience, Kudoke, pursued a business administration degree from the University of Applied Sciences Lausitz in Senftenberg and eventually the Institute of Technology in Letterkenny with the majors in marketing and design. This allowed Kudoke to excel at both producing, creating, and ultimately making his brand successful.

    The relatively young brand was originally known for its meticulously finished skeletonised movements. The introduction of the brand’s first in-house movement, kalibre 1, signified a turning point for the Dresden-based watchmaker. The Kalibre 1 was inspired by 19th-century pocket watch movements, the construction of the movement was made in collaboration with Habring 2 as described by our colleague SJX.

    In an interview conducted by Montredo, when asked if Stefan was inspired by other brands or trends he replied with the following:

    I have specialized in skeleton watches during the last 15 years – a niche per definition – and I do not follow trends. I just build watches that I like.

    – Stefan Kudoke

    This Kudoke 2 was originally introduced in 2019 and went on to win the Petite Aiguille prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The elegant proportions of this particular example measure, 39mm x 10.70mm, fitting the wrist rather well. The fully polished case is made of 5N rose gold blended in with 16% Palladium making the case slightly darker than the usual rose gold.

    The Dial

    The juxtaposing of Roman and Arabic numerals on the radium-plated chapter rings offers a degree of contrast paired with design flair. The magic of the dial is found at 12 o’clock, the doomed sky-disc features hand engraving and hand-hammered surfaces and serves as a day-night indicator. The doré triangle found near the moon and stars acts as the indicator. The high polished infinite hour hand and minutes hand are made of rose gold and provide a stark contrast from the black dial. The dial is signed Kudoke and Germany.

    Movement

    In contrast to the usual movement finish, this particular example features a hand-engraved motif found throughout the base plate. The hand-wound, Kalibre 1, has a 46-hour power reserve and beats at 28’800 vph.

    Brand: Kudoke
    Model: Kudoke 2
    Movement: Kalibre 1
    Case Diameter: 39mm
    Year: 2020
    Box & Papers: Complete Set.

  • Out of Stock DANIEL ROTH TIME ONLY FPIGUETweek 13 1

    Daniel Roth Time Only

    SOLD

    Inspired by Daniel Roth’s first time only, ref. C107, this elegant time-only piece includes a date function and is powered by an F. Piguet movement.  

    It is believed that this specific reference 157 was launched in 1992-1993 in order to target a larger audience as the reference was launched in multiple sizes. This double-ellipse rose gold Daniel Roth measures 32 mm x 35 mm in diameter. The unique shape of the modernized case along with the addition of the downward slopping lugs allows this Daniel Roth to offer unparalleled comfort on the wrist. The dial features a sharply executed pinstripe guilloché pattern, which complements the light, brushed chapter ring with Roman numerals. The use of a monotone dial highlights the different finishing methods found on the dial, Daniel Roth’s dials can be compared to an artist’s canvas, he expressed and executed some of the most spectacular dials in his early years when he was closely associated with the brand. 

    This time-only Daniel Roth is elegant and also features a date window at 6 o’clock. The dial is signed ‘Daniel Roth’ at 12 o’clock and the serial number of the watch is also found on the dial, similar to his early tourbillons. The serial number found on the dial is matching of that found on the movement. Through the contrasting blue steeled hands the legibility of this specific reference is enhanced. Later examples feature lume plots above the hour markers and the dials are not numbered. 

    The Movement

    The automatic movement signed Daniel Roth, is adjusted to five positions and features nineteen jewels. The relatively slim movement is believed to be an ébauche made by F. Piguet, Calibre 9.51. Aesthetically, the calibre is finished to a high standard. Classic Côtes de Genève is found on the base of the movement and the 18-carat gold rotor is finished with a weaving guilloche pattern. 

    Brand: Daniel Roth
    Model: Time Only
    Movement: F. Piguet 9.51
    Case Diameter: 36mm
    Year: 1993
    Box & Papers: Box 
  • Out of Stock FP Journe Steel Series Limited Edition front copyFP Journe Steel Series Limited Edition 1

    F. P. Journe Octa Calendrier

    SOLD

    In 2015 F. P. Journe announced that the iconic 38mm case size would be phased out in favour of the 40-42mm cases. In order to commemorate its 25-year production run the brand released a coffret ‘set’ of 5 emblematic references, the coffret was limited to just 38 examples. This marked the first time the 38mm case size would be made available in Stainless Steel with rose gold movements, the set included the following watches: Tourbillon Souverain, Chronomètre à Résonance, Octa Automatic, Octa Calendrier and the Chronomètre Souverain.

    From a historical standpoint, F. P. Journe has always offered his watches in a 38mm case, this dates back to his first mechanical wristwatch which was exhibited at Basel World in 1991. At the time most watches measured a modest 33-36mm, the reason the tourbillon stood at 38mm was due to the complexity of the movement which incorporated one of the first Tourbillon’s regulated by a remontoir d’egalité. As the brand evolved so did the case sizes, 2001 marked the introduction of the Ruthenium Collection which led to the first 40mm case size. It is also believed that the interest in the 38mm case sizes waned as the years went by. At the same time, certain references could no longer support the 38mm cases, the Optimum for instance would simply not fit in a 38mm case. In improving the overall legibility of the Octa Lune and Quantième Perpétuel F. P. Journe realized that the future lay in the 40-42mm case sizes.

    A fitting tribute

    In order to celebrate the end of the historic 38mm case after 25 years of existence, F. P. Journe created 38 exclusive collector’s sets containing 5 emblematic and historic watches. The set was reserved for historic collectors of the brand and by application only. Certain collectors split up their sets over time such as this example which was originally sold in 2015.

    This stainless steel 38mm Octa Calendrier de Marche is 1 of 38 examples made. The Octa Calendrier de Marche was originally introduced in 2003 as the brand’s third automatic novelty powered by calibre 1300. The Octa Calendrier was one of the first wristwatches that integrated an annual calendar with a large date and simultaneously maintained a 5-day power reserve. The reference was phased in 2015, coincidentally at the same time as the introduction of this steel series. 

    The gold dial pays tribute to the early brass examples that date from 2003-to 2005. The overall layout of the dial remains identical to the original. The separate silver guilloche dial for the hours and minutes is held together by three screws found on the periphery of the steel bell-shaped frame, the overall appearance of the frame is smoother compared to the earlier brass examples. The apertures found at 8 and 10 o’clock displays the day and month. The retrograde date function is visibly pleasing as the entire date frame hugs the outer part of the dial, allowing for an undisturbed view of the timekeeping portion of the dial.  

    The numerals are displayed through a unique use of dark Mediterranean blue lacquer which appears to be unique to this series. The stark contrast of the blue steeled hands is a trait found on F. P. Journes apart from boutique editions. The dial is signed F. P. Journe – Invenit et Fecit Latin for invented and made and features a 120-hour power reserve scale finished in a similar dark Mediterranean blue lacquer.

    Movement

    As is the case with all references found within the Octa Collection, when fully wound the indicator would read ‘120’ and as the power reserve gradually runs down the indicator would display how many hours of power are left.

    The meter-long mainspring supplies an average of 850 gr of torque, limiting the loss in balance amplitude to 25% over the five-day period. Beyond that time, the watch will continue to go for another day or two, but the amplitude loss no longer guarantees precision timekeeping.

    What makes this particular example all the more special is the gold movement decorated with circular Côtes de Genève paired with the first time 38mm steel case.

    The watch comes with a copy of the original set’s certificate.

    Brand: F. P. Journe
    Model: Octa Calendrier (Acier XX/38)
    Movement: Calibre 1300.3 Rose Gold
    Case Diameter: 38mm Stainless Steel
    Year: 2015
    Box & Papers: Copy of the Original Certificate. 

  • Out of Stock CHAYKIN MINOTAURMintaour 9

    Konstantin Chaykin Minotaur

    SOLD

    The year of the bull inspired Konstantin Chaykin to produce one of his most impressive Wristmon to date, the Minotaur is limited to just 12 examples and features a first-time day indicator.  

    The Origins of the Wristmon

    It is hard to fathom that a scant five years ago Basel World was the event of the horological calendar. Retailers and horophiles were feverish with anticipation for the novelties that were debuted at each Basel World. Behind all this mayhem, besides a forgotten staircase, somewhat far from the glamorous halls of Basel World was a rather small area dedicated to Independent Watchmakers. A lackluster showing in 2017 for the larger brands resulted in newfound recognition for a certain independent watchmaker named Konstantin Chaykin. 

    Chaykin is currently the only Russian watchmaker admitted to the prestigious Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (ACHI) and served as president of the Académie from 2016 till 2019. The tremendous upheavals that Russia has endured over the last two centuries have left its watch industry in a recondite state. Not only is Chaykin a highly respected watchmaker, he also acts as a mentor for up-and-coming talent who would without his philanthropy not be given a chance. Above it, all Chaykin is a patriot who prides his “Made in Russia” seal above everything else. 

    Whereas many other new unestablished brands would have relied on the crutch of “Swiss Made” for legitimacy, Chaykin was confident enough in his creations to forgo the designation. According to Chaykin, Swiss brands produce rather simplistic standard production perpetual calendars, whereas the Russian maverick creates watches taking into consideration the Hebrew and Islamic calendar, as well as the movements that determine the date of the Orthodox Easter.

    We encourage you to read this article for more information on the origins of the Wristmon Collection 

    A First time complication 

    Since then the Wristmon collection has been at the epicenter of the brand and is often cited as their best seller. This specific wristmon is named the Minotaur and pays tribute to the 12-year Chinese zodiac cycle. Apart from the OnlyWatch Wristmon, this particular, reference features a second complication. The day indicator between 5-7 o’clock (the nose) is integrated within the collection for the first time. 

    The dial is a work of art, the timekeeping measures are denoted through the use of two independent discs (eyeballs). The right-hand side is used for the minutes whereas the left-hand side is used for the hours. The overall expression of the dial remains dynamic and ever-changing. Behind the jovial expressions of the dial lies the artisanal side of the dial through a Knossos labyrinth design, where, legend has it, the Minotaur lived. 

    The nose, eye sockets, and the outer dial are finished in a different type of bronze, making the dial seem 3 dimensional. The typography found on the day indicator matches that of the hours and minutes. 

    The brushed bronze case measures 42mm and 13mm in thickness and weighs considerably less than its predecessor. The bezel features the name of the wristmon, Minotaur, in rectangular frames, similar to playing cards. Additionally, triangular dimples are found throughout the bezel, though they serve no purpose, they increase the depth of the bezel. The dual crowns are finished in a similar fashion, the one found on the right-hand-side is used for the timekeeping requirements and the left-hand crown is used to advance the day indicator. The opened case back is signed Minotaur – Made in Russia – Konstantin Chaykin – Titanium.

    Movement

    As much as the Wristmon collection provokes the Swiss, it ironically also leans on a modified swiss-made Vaucher VMF 3002 movement, renamed K08-1 by the brand. The additional module required for the discs results in an additional 8 jewels (67 parts) bringing the total to 36 jewels. The rotor is finished with the motif of the dial and the base movement features straight-line cote de Geneve. 

    The Wristmon collection is unpredictable at best and Konstantin Chaykin keeps his collectors on their toes with cultural and innovative Wristmons. This example comes with both inner and outer boxes along with the original warranty and user manual. 

    Brand: Konstantin Chaykin
    Model: Wristmon – Minotaur
    Movement: K08-1
    Case Diameter: 42mm x 13mm
    Year: 2021
    Box & Papers: Full Set 

  • Out of Stock Roger Dubuis Sympathie S37 ChronographRoger Dubuis Sympathie S37 1 2

    Roger Dubuis Sympathie S37

    SOLD

    This 37mm Sympathie Chronograph was made in 1998 as confirmed by the original papers signed by Roger Dubuis. The chronograph complication holds a special place in the early days of Roger Dubuis. The uniquely shaped case was thought to have been inspired by water hatches found on the streets of Switzerland along with Dubuis’s past work at Longines. 

    The nods to vintage Patek’s and Longines are ever-present in Roger Dubuis’s early work. Naturally, Dubuis added his own twist to his offering at the time for instance most movements feature meticulously hand finishing, in tandem, each watch would be limited to 28 examples and sold with an additional solid gold case back, Observatoire de Besançon paper, and an actual image of the watch as its certificate. 

    The Sympathie Chronograph

    This particular example features a plain glossy white dial, placing most of the emphasis on the timekeeping measures as well as the chronograph. The two-register chronograph is found throughout both the Sympathie and Homage collections. The Sympathie collection showcased Roger Dubuis’ vision on how classic could be fused with contemporary watchmaking. This example, ref. S37 56 5, encapsulates what the brand stood for at the time. The intricacies found throughout the piece are a testament to Roger Dubuis’ early work. 

    Dial

    The dial is signed ‘Roger Dubuis – horloger genevois’, on the periphery of the dial at 12 o’clock the dial is signed Bulletin d’Observatoire’ and at 6 o’clock ‘SWISS – GQHM – MADE’. The distinctive Breguet numerals are found at both 12 and 6 o’clock, a further 8 applied hour markers are found on the dial in square format. The applied hour markers display the attention to detail that Roger Dubuis abided by. The minute markers are denoted by the red 5-minute intervals four above the hour markers. The left-hand sub-dial is used for a 60 second counter and the other displays the 30 minute counter of the chronograph. The use of different colored hands ensures the wearer does not confuse the timekeeping function (rose gold hands) from the chronograph (blued hands). 

    The case is finished by contrasting techniques between brushed and polished facets. The bezel is rather unique due to the stepped effect and the uniquely shaped sapphire was thought to be rather expensive. These cases styles were eventually phased in favour of more traditional circular sapphires and bezels in hopes of bringing down the cost of production. This particular example was sold by Orologeria Pisa, a historically important retail in Milan, on the 24th of December 1999. The set is accompanied by its original certificate of origin for the watch, the extra solid case back, and the Observatoire de Besancon.

    Movement

    The modified Lemania 2310 resulted in the RD 56, this movement was regulated by Roger Dubuis and features the Seal of Geneva. Undoubtedly inspired by Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis, ensured all his movements featured the highly coveted Geneva Seal, the movements were also finished to a high standard often visible through the engraved sapphire case-back. The movements were also rigorously tested at the Besançon Observatory, this particular movement was sent in on the 12th January 1998 and completed on the 23rd January 1998.

    Brand: Roger Dubuis
    Model: S37 56 5  Symapthie Chronograph
    Movement: RD 56
    Case Diameter: 37mm
    Year: 1998
    Box & Papers: Complete Set, original boxes, certificate of origin, extra solid case back & Besançon Observatory papers.  
  • Out of Stock PATEK PHILIPPE 3940 BEYER SERIES FIRST GENERATION LIMITED EDITION3940 Beyer 1

    Patek Philippe Beyer 3940

    SOLD

    The relationship between Chronometrie Beyer Zurich and Patek Philippe is unlike any other, at times both dynasties competed despite the fierce competitive spirit, both giants also helped each other navigate through turbulent times. The Quartz Crisis nearly decimated the watch industry in the 1970-1980s, shortly after Philippe Stern doubled down on Patek Philippe’s complication heritage and subsequently introduced the ref. 3940 in 1985. At the time the economy was still recovering from a recession, the Beyer’s had experienced hardship in the past, and having successfully navigated through those periods, the institution was celebrating its 225th Anniversary. The first 25 pieces of the newly introduced reference were made exclusively for Beyer’s 225th Anniversary, each example signed Beyer and a dedicated serial number was engraved on the dial. 

    In light of Beyer’s international reach, watches number 1 to 15 were fitted with German calendar, whereas numbers 16 to 25 came with an English calendar. Number 1 was gifted to Theodor ‘Teddy’ Beyer by his friend Philippe Stern and Number 2 was sold to a prolific collector, Dr. Eugen Gschwind, this particular piece was bought back by Patek Philippe and is now displayed at their Museum. Number 6 was considered to be the personal watch of Theodor ‘Teddy’ Beyer, upon his death in 2002 it was sold via “The Private Collection of Theodor Beyer” and resurfaced at auction via Christie’s on 12th May 2008 selling for CHF 150’000.

    For more information on The Story of Beyer, read this.

    The Birth of the Ref. 3940 

    The introduction of reference 3940 proved to be a pivotal moment for Patek Philippe. To give you some insight in 1969 the introduction of the quartz Astron 35SQ by Seiko, rocked the Swiss watch industry to its core and nearly caused a mass extinction. It is believed that a jubilant Seiko went as far as advertising the Astron 35SQ with the slogan “One day all watches will be made in this way”. The situation was grave, many companies filed for bankruptcy, swiss watch exports plummeted at alarming rates. Historically important brands lost their sense of direction in the midst of this turmoil, most brands entered panic mode.

    The Stern family, the owners of Patek Philippe since 1932, had experienced turmoil before and rode out this quartz wave too. Under Philippe Stern’s stewardship, reference 3940 was introduced to the market in 1985. Many consider the introduction of this particular reference as a turning point in the history of Patek Philippe, almost renaissance-like. The 3940 featured a perpetual calendar that would not need adjusting for over 100 years. The sister reference 3970 is a continuation of 2499 whereas the 3940 was a revelation of sorts. The design displayed a touch of modernity, for example, the stepped sub-dials allow the complication to seamlessly blend into the dial. The updated calibre 240Q also played a pivotal role in allowing this complication to be produced at levels never seen in a grand complication. The production of the 3940 spans from 1985 till 2007, a nod to Philippe Stern’s vision that the 3940 was ahead of its time.

    Our Example 

    This incredibly rare first-generation Beyer-Anniversary 18-carat gold Patek Philippe reference 3940 was originally sold in August 1985. The combination of a yellow gold case paired with a golden dial is reminiscent of past references such as the 1518 and 2499. This particular example features an English calendar, it is estimated that there are only 10 (numbers 16-25) examples with this calendar, the other 15 are in German (numbers 1-15). 

    All 25 examples feature the Beyer signature at 12 o’clock under the Patek Philippe – Genève. Each piece is number individually at 6 o’clock underneath the moon phase aperture, the prolonged N of No. is a tribute to pocket watches. Regardless of the monotone dial, the polished dauphine hands along with the facetted polished hour batons allow for the timekeeping measurement to be easily distinguished. The sunken sub-dials found at 3 and 9 o’clock are solely dedicated to the perpetual calendar. The sub-dial found at 3 o’clock displays the leap year and month and the sub-dial found at 9 o’clock displays the day, the date is found on the periphery of the moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock. The typography found on the sub-dials matches that of the PATEK PHILIPPE – GENÈVE BEYER. 

    Case

    The solid caseback is signed Patek Philippe No. 770XX, Fabriquée pour le 225 éme anniversaire de Beyer à Zürich 1760 – 1985. The last two numbers of the movement number correspond with the dial number. The case number is found on the underside of the top right lug, the engraving seems to be done by hand. A possible explanation could be that the case numbers were added once the watches were cased up. This is theory is supported by the original certificate of origin which is mainly printed apart from the case number this was handed written onto the document. 

    Movement

    The movement found in this example is the venerable caliber 240Q. The clever engineering allows the 3940 to be one of the thinnest perpetual calendars made by Patek Philippe. The importance of this specific caliber cannot be understated, it is still in production today and powers references such as the Nautilus refs. 3712 and 5712, amongst many other references.

    This particular example comes with its original box signed Beyer 1760-1985, pusher, original invoice from Beyer, original certificate of origin, and additional paperwork. 

    Brand: Patek Philippe
    Model: Ref. 3940, Beyer Series
    Movement: 240Q
    Case Diameter: 36mm
    Year: 1985
    Box & Papers: Complete Set.  

  • Tadao Ando BVLAGRI OCTO FINISSIMOTadao Ando BVLAGRI OCTO FINISSIMO 3

    Bulgari Tadao Ando

     

    $25,000

    This Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic is one of the 160 pieces from the Tadao Ando Limited Edition, designed in collaboration with a renowned self-taught Japanese architect. This Bulgari Octo Finissimo marks the second generation collaboration between renowned Japanese architect, Tadao Ando, and the Italian Jeweller. In recent years, Bulgari has exploited its rich heritage through the acquisition of Gerald Genta SA and Daniel Roth SA. The Octo Finissimo is both visually and mechanically appealing, the entire collection makes use of ultra-thin movements. 

    The designer behind the Octa Finissimo, Fabrizio Bonamassa, the Director of Watch Design at Bulgari also played an instrumental role in highlighting the similarities between Tadao Ando’s work and the Octo Finissimo. Bonamassa, essentially gave Tadao Ando a blank canvas to experiment with and removed the hour indexes. Tadao Ando is known for expressing his unique design philosophy through the use of concrete and glass similar to the design structure of the watch. In light of the warm reception, the first iteration of the collaboration fostered, the second generation, was equally impressive. 

    Time is meaningful to human beings as is living. When we display it as a clock, I believe it is not just counting time, but also a way to express oneself.  – Tadao Ando 

    The first generations consisted of two references a time only limited to 200 examples and a tourbillon limited to 10 examples, both examples were exclusive to the Japanese market. 

    This Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando, second generation, ref. 103534 retains the 40mm case side. The major change lies in the materials used, the case and bracelet are made of black ceramic with a textured, sandblasted finish. The lacquered blue dial is rather interesting, the colour ranges from midnight dark blue to a bright and vibrant blue, mimicking the depths of a night sky. 

    Tadao Ando described the purpose of the watch as the following: 

    I wanted to make a watch that says, in this time of the pandemic, we must all find hope, no matter what. 

    The interplay between the stark ceramic black case and the dial is an evolution from the original monochromatic first generation. The yellow gold crescent around five o’clock signifies the easiest stages of a new moon. The Japanese refer to this slim present moon as Mikazuki, marking a symbol of rebirth. 

    This Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Limited Edition is powered by the automatic Calibre BVL 138. The movement measure 2.23mm thick, a remarkable achievement and a world premiere when it first came out. Despite the thinness, the movement is still able to deliver a respectable power reserve of 60 hours. The movement is partially visible through an engraved signed sapphire case back.  

    Brand: Bulgari
    Model: 103534
    Movement: BVL 138
    Case Diameter: 40mm
    Year: 2021
    Box & Papers: Original Box & Service Paper. 
  • Out of Stock Roger Dubuis Sympathie S37Roger Dubuis Sympathie S37 1

    Roger Dubuis Sympathie

    SOLD

    This 18-carat rose gold 37mm Roger Dubuis Time Only is one of twenty-eight examples made. The avant-garde case design of the Sympathie paired with a glossy, enamel-like, off-white dial makes this particular example compelling. 

    Independent Formation

    The landscape of independents as we know it today can be attributed to a select group of watchmakers, such as Roger Dubuis.  At the time most talented watchmakers worked for larger brands as full-time watchmakers of freelance movement makers. Only a handful of personalities were able to found their own brands and carve out a market of their own. Dubuis was at the forefront of a renaissance-like change, founding his eponymous brand in 1995.

    Dubuis’ formation initially commenced with Longines in their after-sales department, thereafter Patek Philippe came calling. They identified Dubuis’s exceptional talent, which led to him joining the complications department whereby Dubuis was exposed to some of the most spectacular reference made by Patek Philippe i.e. ref. 2499. Dubuis was slowly building a name for himself, similar to that of Svend Andersen co-founder of AHCI – Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants. 

    Design

    The source of inspiration behind Dubuis’ instantly recognisable designs, can be attributed to both a combination of experience at other prominent brands as well as unleashing the reins and allowing himself to pursue ‘freedom’. In turn, Roger Dubuis quickly gained appreciation amongst collectors and enthusiasts alike. Dubuis went to great lengths to ensure that Roger Dubuis offered an unparalleled Haute Horology, all his movements featured the Geneva Seal and the overall presentation of the watch was of a high standard, usually resulting in an extra solid gold case back, a nod to Patek Philippe. The Sympathie collection houses some of Dubuis’ most iconic watches made since the brand was founded.

    Our Example

    The S37 represents one of the finest time-only Roger Dubuis made, the enamel-like dial paired with applied 18-carat rose gold Roman numerals creates a subtle hint of contrast paired with refined elegance. At 12 o’clock the dial is signed “ROGER DUBUIS – horloger genevois” the décalque used on the dial appears to be stark black. Similarly, the ever-elegant minute track features similar characteristics, along with five-minute intervals found above the applied hour markers. At 6 o’clock the dial is signed “Bulletin d’Observatoire” indicating that this movement was tested for accuracy at the Besançon Observatory. Leaving no stone unturned, Dubuis could have easily settled to have his movements COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certified instead he opted to seek the ultimate seal of accuracy in the “Bulletin d’Observatoire”.

    The case possesses flamboyant properties, an area of difficulty lay in creating a sapphire that would follow the grooves of the case. Due to the high costs associated with production, the sapphire was eventually phased out for a traditional rounded shape as Roger Dubuis’s influence waned. The different facets found on the case generally contrast between brushed and polished finishes. The sapphire case-back allows for exquisite movement to be seen. Interestingly, the four hallmarks are found on each lug, similar to certain Patek Philippe references. The crown is signed Roger Dubuis.

    The movement found in this 18-carat gold S37 is derived from the Lemania 8810 ébauche, internally named the RD 57. The Lemania 8810 ébauche was one of the most reliable calibres made at the time and allowed for other complications to be integrated within the movement.

    Brand: Roger Dubuis
    Model: S37
    Movement: RD 57
    Case Diameter: 37mm / Rose Gold
    Year: Circa 1999
    Box and Papers: Watch Only 

  • Out of Stock Roger Dubuis frontROGER DUBUIS SYMPATHIE

    Roger Dubuis Sympathie QP

    SOLD

    This 37mm Sympathie Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a testament to Roger Dubuis early work. Similar to most of his early pieces this particular example is limited to 28 examples. 

    The landscape of independents as we know it today can be attributed to a select group of watchmakers, such as Roger Dubuis.  At the time most talented watchmakers worked for larger brands as full-time watchmakers or as consultants to the large brands. Only a handful of personalities were able to found their own brands and carve out a market of their own. Dubuis was at the forefront of a renaissance-like change, founding his eponymous brand in 1995.

    Dubuis’ formation initially commenced with Longines in their after-sales department, thereafter Patek Philippe came calling. They identified Dubuis exceptional talent, that led to him in joining the complications department whereby Dubuis was exposed to some to the most spectacular reference made by Patek Philippe i.e. ref. 2499. Upon leaving Patek Philippe Dubuis was instantly able to build a name for himself, similar to that of Svend Andersen who similarly worked at Patek Philippe and is the co-founder of AHCI – Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants. 

    The nods to vintage Patek’s and Longines are ever-present in Roger Dubuis’s early work. Naturally, Dubuis added his own twist to his offering at the time for instance most movements feature meticulously hand finishing, in tandem, each watch would be limited to 28 examples and sold with an additional solid gold case back, Observatoire de Besançon paper, and an actual image of the watch as its certificate. 

    This 37mm Sympathie Quantieme Perpetual encapsulates what the relatively young brand stood for. The bi-retrograde perpetual calendar complication was one of particular interest for Dubuis. It is believed that Dubuis initially worked on this complication with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht for Harry Winston circa 1989-1990, it marked the first double retrograde perpetual calendar made. This complication became synonymous with Roger Dubuis’ early work and is found in both the Hommage and Sympathie collections. The movement that powered this impressive complication is the famed Lemania cal. 2310 found in several prominent Patek Philippe’s. 

    The Case 

    This case is distinguished by its uniquely shaped Sapphire which was fazed out as Roger Dubuis influence waned. There have been conflicting theories as to what led Dubuis to pursue such a bold case design. Certain collectors argue that a pavement manhole inspired the angular case with elongated lugs, others argue that it was his time at Longines that inspired the recreation of the Symapthie case.  The underside of the four lugs posses four different hallmarks, Roger Dubuis stamp, 750, case maker and an additional hallmark. The case back is also signed Roger Dubuis – Horologer Genevois. 

    The Dial 

    The second-generation off-white lacquered dial is where Dubuis’ truly expressed himself as an independent watchmaker. At times perpetual calendars may feel cramped, Dubuis managed to deliver an unclustered dial through the unique bi-retrograde concaving day a date indicators found on the far left and right-hand side of the dial. The use of the concaving indicators allows the two sub-registers of the dial to be omnipresent. The addition of the polished semi-skeletonised Feuille hands allows for a further degree of legibility of both the chronograph and perpetual calendar. The dial is signed Roger Dubuis – horologer genevois at 6 o’clock just under the moon phase and the Bulletin d’Observatoire signature is found neatly tucked into the tachometer at 12 ‘clock. The leap year indicator is denoted at 12 o’clock and is displayed through a bright red hand. 

    The Movement 

    The modified Lemania 2310 resulted in the RD 5632, the complexity of the movement cannot be understated, the nearly instantaneous jump for the perpetual calendar is remarkable. The movement features 25 jewels and remains visible due to the engraved sapphire case back. 

    As of June 2021 this watch has been fully served by Roger Dubuis. 

    Brand: Roger Dubuis
    Model: S37 Symapthie Quantieme Perpetual
    Movement: RD 5632
    Case Diameter: 37mm
    Year: 1998
    Box & Papers: Original Box & Service Paper. 

  • Out of Stock Cartier CPCP AsymetriqueCartier CPCP Tank Asymetrique 8

    Cartier Tank Asymétrique

    SOLD

    Parisian Jeweller, Cartier, is known to have made some of the most captivating watches by integrating fascinating shapes within cases, challenging the usual status quo of classical round watches. An era of particular importance for Cartier watches was that of 1930-1940. A reference that encapsulates that era would undoubtedly be the Asymétrique, which resembled a tilted rectangle along with a diamond. Initially, referred to as the Parallélogramme or Losange the Asymétrique did not form part of the tank collection at the time of its launch. Certain collectors argue that the collection always lay in the purview of the Tank collection, more specifically the Tank Oblique. Despite the unusual design, in practice the watch is user-friendly, a 30-degree adjustment is all that is required, essentially being the perfect companion for driving. 

    The Resurgence

    The quartz crisis essentially forced manufacturers to adopt the battery-powered revolution, as a result, many brands completely sidelined mechanical watches often bidding adieu to the entire craft. A prime example of this would be the Zenith El Primero, had it not been for Charles Vermont, the entire development of chronographs would have been lost. 

    Consumer preferences had also shifted many preferring highly accurate cheap quartz watches. Household names such as Cartier were equally impacted and shifted a majority of their production towards Quartz movements. The turning point came towards the end of the last decade of the 20th Century, the Parisian Maison, attempted to venture back into mechanical wristwatches with the launch of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris.

    Instead of reinventing the wheel Cartier, dove deep into their rich heritage and brought back some of the most innovative designs. The entire CPCP collection houses high-quality manually wound movements. Since Cartier no longer possessed the expertise, the prestigious brand outsourced most of their movements for the CPCP era, manufactures such as Piaget, Jaeger-Le Coultre and THA (a movement manufacture Vianney Halter, Denis Flageollet, and François-Paul Journe) all played a role in the CPCP era. The movements were mostly finished by Cartier and feature the interlaced “double C” pattern. Interestingly, the program came to a halt in 2008, partly to due difficulties with external suppliers as well as the economic crisis.

    The launch of the Cartier Paris Collection Privée in 1998 marked an opportunity to bring back this marvel. Eight years after the launch of the CPCP collection Cartier finally brought back the Asymétrique, a run of 150 pieces in yellow gold, along with two unique examples in platinum according to Cartier’s archives. The numbered edition paid tribute to the original design right down the pomme hands and flatened crowned. 

    The case size measures 26.10mm x 31mm making it significantly larger than its predecessors and ultimately making it more suited for a modern wrist. The rose motif found on the center of the dial just beneath the pinion of the hands is found across the CPCP collection. The rose motif wanes into traditional guilloché along the periphery of the dial. The typography found on this particular reference is rather captivating, the unique minute track features oddly spaced markers, the five-minute markers are ever slightly darker and thicker. The use of the elongated pomme hands permits the user to be able to tell time with ease and accuracy. 

    The Tank Asymétrique is powered by a manual wound 9770 MC, an Ébouche based on a Jaeger-LeCoultre form movement.

    Brand: Cartier
    Model: Tank à Asymétrique, 2842
    Movement: 437 MC
    Case Diameter: 27mm x 31mm
    Year: 2006
    Box & Papers: Full Set, Cartier Box signed and papers 
  • Out of Stock MBF MAD1 MAX BUSSER frontMBF MAD1 MAX BUSSER 1

    MB&F M.A.D 1

    SOLD

    Maximilian Büsser broke the rules of corporate watchmaking and has rewritten the rules of collaborative watchmaking during the past two decades. The first signs appeared in 2001 with the Opus 1, a collaborative effort between Harry Winston and F. P. Journe. The concept revolved around selecting an independent watchmaker to collaborate with the famed Jeweller, this allowed for radical transparency by highlighting the importance of independent watchmakers. The entire Opus Series was the brainchild of Max and eventually led him to create the world’s first-ever horological concept laboratory. After 15 years managing prestigious watch brands, Maximilian Büsser resigned from his Managing Director position at Harry Winston in 2005 to create MB&F – Maximilian Büsser & Friends. The watch industry is not as transparent as it may seem, many NDA’s are signed between larger brands and independent watchmakers, on the other hand, Max placed a tremendous amount of emphasis on the ‘Friends’. Always sharing the stage with them and celebrating their accomplishments as one. Behind the mind-boggling Horological Machines or the neo-classic Legacy Machines, the brand has continuously innovated and positioned itself uniquely. In tandem, the concept of the MAD Gallery is the most untraditional boutique experience one would ever experience in the realms of the watch industry. 

    Origins of the M.A.D.1

    In light of the extensive prototyping and unconventional case shapes, the average MB&F price point might not speak to many. In a recent interview, Max mentioned that he always had the ambition to build a second brand, at a more affordable price point. This project eventually found its way into the MB&F fold due to the Global Lockdown in 2020. As a way to thank collectors, partners and friends for their support during those turbulent times. Rather ironically, the demand for watches peaked in 2020 and 2021 something that would stun most brands. Upon the secretive launch of this mysterious MAD 1, each tribe member  (officially registered owners) and friends (suppliers) were emailed and granted the possibility to order this piece. During that period, the Tribe Members increased twofold, as existing owners caught wind of this rather elusive launch. As result, the brand also benefited from registering more owners to their respective watches and as a whole, this entire offering was a win-win, it is believed just 450 pieces were made during 2021 and more will be made in the coming years as well as a production version for non-tribe members. 

    To classify this particular piece as an entry piece might be somewhat misleading as it is still not considered to be an MB&F. That being said, the piece embodies everything the brand stands for, in a spectacular manner. 

    Unique Case

    The case structure is rather unique and frankly speaking it is somewhat difficult to understand how the case is put together. The base of the case features an X shape and the accentuated lugs act as a frame that houses the second part of the case. The polished stainless steel bezel looks rather ‘simplistic’ until you realise the edge features a combination of brushed and polished facets. It would appear to be screwed on. The crown is found at 12 o’clock and is helped by swivelling pull tab, making it relatively easy to set. The captivating rotor takes centre stage of the ‘dial’ through the sapphire glass. 

    Movement

    The Miyota 821A powers this first generation MAD 1, the movement has been inverted to allow for the triple-blade rotor to be visible at the front of the watch. The titanium blade features three LumiNova stripes along the periphery of the blade. The movement has been modified to allow for the lateral hour and minute scale, the numerals are also luminous. The movement is capable of delivering 42 hours of power reserve. 

    Brand: MB&F
    Model: M.A.D 1
    Movement: Miyota 821A
    Case Diameter: 42mm
    Year: 2021
    Box & Papers: Full Set 
  • Out of Stock De BETHUNE DB027 GREEN HAWKDe BETHUNE DB027 GREEN HAWK 8 1

    De Bethune Titan Hawk

    SOLD

    This DB27 Titan Hawk ‘Green’ forms part of a 10 piece limited edition introduced in 2021. Apart from the captivating dial, the short lug grade 5 titanium case is equally impressive. 

    De Bethune

    In 2002, De Bethune was founded by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet. Prior to that, Flageollet, co-founded THA society with François-Paul Journe, the company was tasked with creating movements for other notable brands. Watchmaking runs in Flageollet’s blood he represents the fourth generation of the Flageollet family to become a watchmaker. Since its inception De Bethune successfully respected traditions of old whilst being at the forefront of technical innovations, as a result, the brand boasts some of the most impressive calibres made to date. Apart from the impressive calibres, De Bethune does not shy away from the fusion of two different worlds, the Maestri Art DW5 Armilia and Dream Watch 6 are a fine examples of the artisanal know-how tied into Haute horology.  

    The Origins of the DB27

    The DB27 was originally introduced in 2012 to commemorate the brand’s 10 year anniversary. The DB27 combines the attributes of the DB28 contemporary lines with the DB25 classical and delicate spirit, resulting in simplicity while making no compromise in comfort and refinement. The DB27 Titan Hawk has had several generations, this particular example forms part of the second generation series. The second-generation essentially replaces the central date function in favour of sweeping seconds. The only common trait found across the collection is the use of Titanium for the cases. 

    The Dial

    The unique, Aston Martin like Green dial is the first time the brand has experimented with such a colour. At first glance, the Green dial may seem one-dimensional, upon, exposing it to different lighting the hues of Green appear to change ever so slightly. The use of guilloche or rather micro-light engraving is found at the centre of the dial, resulting in the dial being split into three parts and above is the classic arrow-head shaped ridge pattern signed ‘De Bethune’ and ‘Titan Hawk’. The overall depth of the dial is rather impressive and resembles a plate light surface due to the concaving outer dial. The use of both sliver toned Roman and Arabic numerals results in a fine contrast along the minute and hour sector of the dial. The skeletonise hands initially feature a frosted finish, towards the end, they transform into black polished arrows. 

    The Movement

    A majority of De Bethune’s are manually wound, this DB27 Titan Hawk is powered by calibre AutoV2. The movement features a 60-hour power reserve, a single barrel and beats at 28’800 vph. De Bethune is known for its unique blueing process and the movement makes use of this remarkable know-how. The movement also features a tungsten winding mass, it does not interrupt the view of the movement due to its positioning, which is thought to maximise winding efficiency.  

    Brand: De Bethune
    Model: DB27TIS4V2ww
    Movement: AUTOV2
    Case Diameter: 43mm
    Year: 2021
    Box & Papers: Full Set  

  • Out of Stock F. P. Journe Chronometre Souveraine Mother of PearlF. P. Journe Chronometre Souveraine Mother of Pearl 8

    F. P. Journe
    Chronomètre Nacre

    SOLD

    Originally introduced in 2005, the Chronométre Souverain pays homage to Marine Chronometers of the early 19th Century. Shortly after its unveiling, the reference ‘CS’ was awarded the Men’s Favourite Watch by the Geneva Grand Prix d’Horlogie circa 2005. The rather simplistic three-hand timepiece was a design masterstroke according to the late Eugenio Zigliotto who described the reference as a classic for the next 50 years. 

    The Dial

    Upon its launch, the Chronomètre Souverain was originally only made available with a silver dial, since then several other configurations have been introduced perhaps none more exciting than the Nacre (french for mother of pearl) dial. The mother of pearl dial was introduced in 2012 and this particular example was originally sold in 2012, at the time both 38mm and 40mm cases were made available for this reference. 

    The silver dial features a Clous de Paris pattern in the centre, while the outer track features a single piece of precisely cut mother of pearl. The blue embossed Arabic numerals vary in size due to the subsidiary seconds found between 7 and 8 o’clock. The power reserve indicator is found at 3 o’clock, showing 56 hours. When fully wounded the power reserve indicator reads 0 and as the barrels unwind, the reserve would indicate how many hours since the timepiece was last wound, similar to marine chronometer clocks. The contrast between the Clous de Paris, Circular Guilloche, Blue Steeled hands and Mother of Pearl makes this particular reference captivating. This particular configuration is exclusive to F. P. Journe Boutiques and Espaces. 

    The Movement

    The distinction between the manually wound and automatic movements can be divided into the following, Octa (automatic) and Souverain (manually wound). This manually wound 18-carat gold movement, calibre 1304, measures 3.75mm thick allowing for the overall dimensions of the Chonometre Souverain to remain modest at 40mm x 8.60mm. The movement features twin barrels, similar to the classic configuration of precision watches, resulting in stable power transmitted to the movement. The architecture of the movement is visible through a sapphire case back, most of the gear chain is hidden beneath the dial.  The baseplate is decorated with perlage and meulé Soleil cotes and the screw heads are black polished. 

    This F. P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain comes with its original F. P. Journe boxes and guaranty card. 

    Brand: F. P. Journe
    Model: Chronomètre Souverain Nacre
    Movement: Caliber 1304
    Case Diameter: 40mm
    Year: 2012 (sold)
    Box & Papers: Full Set  
  • Out of Stock Patek Philippe 5065APatek Philippe 5065A 10

    Patek Philippe 5065A

    SOLD

    In 1997 Patek Philippe introduced the Aquanaut, this marked the first time the brand would sell a watch fitted on a rubber strap. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut blends in a few design cues from the Patek Nautilus collection, it is believed that the new collection was essentially created to lure in an entirely new generation of collectors. The very first Aquanaut measured just 36mm in diameter and was limited to 1000 pieces in both refs. 5060A and ref. 5060J.

    Despite its similarities to the Nautilus the Aquanaut definitely possesses distinctive features such as the case, dial, and strap. The satin-brushed finished case with alternating highly polished as well as beveled edges was rather unique, the construction of the three-piece case is entirely different from its predecessor or sibling, the Nautilus. The screw-down crown also allows for water resistance for up to 120 meters. The dial can be compared to Swiss Chocolate bars the interplay with the strap texture was rather unique and is still present to date.

    The 5065A

    A year later Patek Philippe released three additional references: 5064, 5066, and 5065. The 5065 is often named the ‘Jumbo’ as the traditional 36mm case size had been enhanced by 2mm, making the case size 38mm, for larger wrists. 

    This example, ref. 5065A, was originally retailed by historically important retailer Gubelin in 2000. This particular example features tritium hour markers that have aged well, resulting in a warm brownish-yellow color. It is believed that Patek Philippe phased out tritium in favor of superluminova between 2004 to 2006. The textured black is reminiscent of military objects or Swiss chocolate bars. It is still ever-present in modern Aquanauts along with the textured bracelets. This particular example was originally sold with the stainless steel bracelet, an option that is offered today. In light of the 10 year anniversary of the Aquanaut in 2007, Patek Philippe discontinued all 506X references in favor of the 516X references.

    The Movement

    The 5065A is equipped with a caliber 315 SC a self-winding movement, it features 29 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, and is just adjusted to five positions. The overall finishing of the movement is of a high standard displaying the classic circular Geneva stripes. The set comes with its original inner and outer box, along with the original warranty. 

    Brand: Patek Philippe
    Model: 5065A
    Movement: Calibre 315 SC
    Case Diameter: 38mm
    Year: 2000
    Box & Papers: Complete Set, box and papers.
  • Out of Stock Vacheron Constantin Overseas ChronographVacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph 13

    Vacheron Constantin 5500V

    SOLD

    The brand Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron and is often cited as the oldest watch brand. Had it not been for François-Constantin (1788-1854) the brand may have not reached its true potential, he implemented the famous saying “Faire mieux si possible, ce qui est toujours possible” (Do better if possible, and that is always possible). 

    In light of the brand’s 222 year anniversary, Vacheron Constantin introduced the iconic reference 222. The watch featured the aesthetic and technical attributes of sports watches and guaranteed water-resistance of up to 120 meters. Since then Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to sports watches has been somewhat inconsistent, right up until 2016. This marked the first time Vacheron dedicated specific calibres to this collection. 

    Originally released in 2016 this ref. 5500V/110A-B148 housed the new in-house calibre 5200. The case measures 42.5mm and 13.70mm in thickness. The case and bracelet feature brushed and polished facets paying tribute to the original ref. 222. The overall set is rather remarkable, the watch is sold with two straps, one in rubber and the other in crocodile, and a full stainless steel bracelet. Other brands would simply create three references and not offer such interchangeability, additionally, the changing system is user-friendly. 

    The vibrant blue lacquer dial is thought to be rather complicated to produce. The dial is signed Vacheron Constantin – Geneva at 12 o’clock. The recessed sub dials feature delicate guilloche and matt finished blue. Both sub-dials found at 3 and 6 o’clock are dedicated to the chronograph, whereas the other found at 9 o’clock is used for the ordinary 60 sweeping seconds. The hour a minute hands feature luminova. 

    This particular reference is powered by calibre 5200 and features the Poinçon de Genève. Made of 236 components, it features a column-wheel mechanism, a vertical clutch coupling system, and a power reserve of 52 hours. The open sapphire caseback displays Vacheron’s high standards of finishing and the addition of the finely decorated 22k yellow gold rotor. 

    Brand: Vacheron Constantin
    Model: 5500V/110A-B148
    Movement: 5200
    Case Diameter: 42.5mm
    Year: 2021
    Box & Papers: Full Set, Box & Papers
  • Out of Stock Audemars Piguet 25682PTAudemars Piguet QP 3

    Audemars Piguet 25682PT

    SOLD

    Audemars Piguet’s watchmaking foundations were laid towards the end of the 18th Century. Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Piguet founded Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus, Vallée de Joux. Believing in the power of the Vallée de Joux’s network of artisanship and following their firm convictions, they set on crafting unique complicated mechanisms by hand at a time when serial production was looming with the rise of industrialisation. The company is still independent and the fourth generation of the Audemars family is still involved in the business. 

    This Quantième Perpétuel 25682PT forms part of the Edward Piguet collection, named after one of the co-founders of the brand. The collection was inspired by the brand’s rich heritage. The collection is distinguished by its uniquely shaped rectangular case, reminiscent of the Cartier Tank. 

    This Quantième Perpétuel 25682PT measures 45mm x 27mm due to the distinctive case shape the watch wears rather well. The platinum case features polished rounded flanks paired with a solid brushed case back with the respective hallmarks. 

    The Dial

    The overall dial remains sober due to the recessed sub-dials. The sub-dial found at 12’o clock indicates the month, the date register is found at 3 o’clock,  the moon phase is found at 6 o’clock and the day register is found at 9 o’clock. The indicators are further enhanced by blue steeled hands. 

    The timekeeping measurements are denoted by black leaf hands for the hours and minutes. The black-painted Breguet numerals contrast rather well with the sub-dial typography. It is interesting to note that the minute track does not feature 90-degree angles and is rounded, similar to that of the sapphire glass. 

    The Movement 

    This Quantième Perpetuel 25682PT is powered by the manual-winding calibre 2003. As is the case with many of Audemars Piguet’s calibres this particular one was developed in collaboration with Jaeger-Le Coultre. The perpetual calendar module was added to the base 2003, the movement is known for its remarkable thinness. This set is accompanied by its original paper and box.

    Brand: Audemars Piguet 
    Model: Edward Piguet, 25682PT 
    Movement: Calibre 2003
    Case Diameter: 41mm x 11mm
    Year: 1995
    Box & Papers: Box & Paper 
  • Out of Stock Daniel Roth Skeleton Chronograph frontDaniel Roth Skeleton Chronograph 8

    Daniel Roth Chronograph

    SOLD

    Daniel Roth founded his eponymous brand in 1989 and created some of the fascinating complications made to date, he was also instrumental in Breguet’s resurgence.

    The name Daniel Roth still causes furore amongst collectors for reasons that are known to most. In his quest to become a recognised watchmaker, Daniel Roth completed his technical apprenticeship in Nice, before moving to the epicenter of watchmaking, Vallée de Joux. The revered school in Le Sentier and a seven-year period with Audemars Piguet laid the foundations of Roth’s craft. When the Chaumet Brothers, the then owners of Breguet, were attempting to revamp and restore the glory days of Breguet, they turned to Daniel Roth. Before commencing his work at Breguet, Daniel Roth first went back to watch school in Le Sentier for a year to get a solid technical and academic base in complications and spent an entire year studying Breguet archives. Fourteen years later, Roth, not only brought back the glory days for Breguet, he created some of the most specular watches since Abraham Louis Breguet’s time.

    The end of the Chaumet tenure and allowed Daniel Roth to pursue ambitions of his own, in 1989, Daniel Roth decided to establish his own manufacture. The rise of the independents was almost renaissance like Roth was one of the pioneers in this newfound era of ‘freedom’, other honourable names such as Svend Andersen, Franck Muller, F. P. Journe, Roger Dubuis played a crucial role in allowing this movement to flourish. Interestingly, Roth was able to carve out his own design language that made most of his pieces instantly recognisable. There were subtle cues and nods to Breguet’s work in his designs although what made Roth’s instantly distinguishable was his double-ellipse case, the difference polished facets found on the case, and the unique construction of the case was ahead of its time.

    The relatively young brand paired with its eponymous founder, Daniel Roth, had grand ambitions. In order to realise this, the brand accepted an external investment, which resulted in Daniel Roth being sidelined to an extent, similar to that of Roger Dubuis. In 2001, the Daniel Roth brand was sold to the Bvlgari Group and eventually morphed under the name. This resulted in Daniel Roth losing the right to use his own name for his future project.

    Our Example

    This double-ellipse white gold Daniel Roth measures 41mm x 38mm in diameter and 11.40mm in thickness. The unique shape of the modernised case along with the addition of the downward slopping lugs allows this ‘large’ sized Daniel Roth to offer unparalleled comfort on the wrist. The semi-skeletonized dial allows one to appreciate the complexity of the chronograph mechanism.   The time-only function can be easily distinguished from the chronograph complication due to the elongated hands found for the hours, minutes and seconds. The sub-dials found at both 3 and 9 o’clock are solely used for the 30 minutes and 60-second counters. 

    The dial is signed “DANIEL ROTH” at 12 o’clock and “SWISS MADE” at 6 o’clock, the individual number of the watch is placed on the case-back.

    The Movement

    The automatic movement signed by Daniel Roth, is adjusted to five positions and features thirty-one jewels. 

    Brand: Daniel Roth
    Model: 447.X.60
    Movement: Calibre DR101
    Case Diameter: 41mm x 38mm
    Year: 2000
    Box & Papers: Watch Only.

  • Out of Stock BUY PREOWNED LUDOVIC BALLOUARD SHIMMERY EARLY DIALLUDOVIC BALLOUARD DIAL UPSIDE DOWN PT950

    Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down

    SOLD

    The rise of the independents as we know it today can be somewhat misleading, the tides were vastly different just ten years ago. Most independent watchmakers slipped under the radar, had it not been for the patronage of certain collectors many independents would have simply not survived or flourished. In the midst of a full-fledged financial crisis in 2009, French independent watchmaker, Ludovic Ballouard decided to launched his eponymous brand.  

    The Journey of Ludovic

    Born in 1971 in Brittany, France to a Breton father and a Dutch mother, Ludovic Ballouard grew up close to the sea with a special interest in assembling and flying radio-controlled model aircrafts. A teacher of Ludovic’s recommend he pursue a path in watchmaking, after having successfully completed a three-year watchmaking course, Ludovic embarked on this journey of becoming a watchmaker. A short but fruitful six-month stint in Sentier (Switzerland), which largely revolved around the assembling of Lemania Chronographs, allowed Ludovic to gain exposure to a Swiss company. Cultural difference apart, Ludovic, returned to Brittany and embarked on a completely different career which still required meticulous precision, the maintenance of aircraft instruments. Several years later, Ludovic, did not want to forgo and abandon his horological calling. After having contacted Franck Muller, he was invited for an interview of sorts. The practical interview required Ludovic to assemble ten chronographs in a week … his time in Sentier allowed him to pass this ‘test’ with days to spare, he then went on to work in the aftersales department for three years. 

    Following his departure from Franck Muller, Ludovic was handed an opportunity that rarely presents itself, earlier that day a watchmaker had abruptly left F. P. Journe, resulting in a vacant position. The prospect of working for F. P. Journe was an opportunity that Ludovic seized with conviction and established himself as one of the most talented watchmakers at F. P. Journe. The original six-month temporary job actually lasted seven years, out of which Ludovic, spent the last three years assembling the extremely complicated Sonnerie Souveraine, his work with such grande complications proved that Ludovic Ballouard was and is a highly talented watchmaker. 

    The Founding of Ludovic Ballouard

    Upon launching his own brand at an uncertain time, Ludovic took a page out of Breguet’s practice of a souscription, 50% upfront and 50% upon the delivery of the piece. The souscripiton upside down is limited to 12 examples with each edition number in red on the dial. This would mean that the first example number 01/12, would feature a red 1 o’clock numeral and so on. The project was relatively secretive as Ludovic was awaiting for his patent to be granted. It is believed that Ludovic’s current production hovers around 12 pieces per annum. 

    This 41mm platinum Up Side Down embodies everything the brand stands for, Ludovic stresses the importance of living in the moment. The past and the future time is, literally, presented upside down to tell you that there should be no regrets about the past which you cannot change, and no qualms for the future which you don’t know anything about. The poetic play on the jumping hours results in the watch only having two hands, a traditional centralised feuille hand is used for the minutes and a recessed 60-second counter is found at 6 o’clock. 

    The shimmery texture white gold dial is reminiscent of some of F. P. Journe’s early dials. The dial features 12 apertures for the jumping hours, at any given time 11 of the 12 apertures are upside down, the only one that is not upside down is the current hour denoted with a dot. The sunken 60 second sub dial adds an element of depth to the dial. The dial is signed Ludovic Ballouard – Geneve. 

    The hefty 41mm platinum case commands a firm presence on a wrist, the thickness of the case measures 11mm. The entire case is polished and features an off centre crown found at 2 ‘clock, the additional use of crown ‘guards’ allows for the crown to seamlessly blend in within the case. The movement remains visible through a sapphire case back, the watch is signed Ludovic Ballouard – Upside Down which is achieved through hang engraving. The uniquely shaped pin buckle is also made out of platinum. 

    The patented calibre BO1 is capable of delivering a 36hour power reserve and has a total of 228 components. The calibre is based on the Peseux 7001 with the addition of the jumping hour mechanism. All made possible by drilling twelve holes in the mainplate and fitting 12 minuscule pinions which connect each Maltese cross with the relevant hour marker. Through the use of a snail cam that is connected to the centre wheel, Ludovic was able to realise his unique jumping hour. 

    Brand: Ludovic Ballouard 
    Model: Upside Down
    Movement: B01
    Case Diameter: 41mm x 11mm
    Year: 2011
    Box & Papers: Original Leather Wallet 
  • Out of Stock A LANGE SOHNE ZEITWERK STRIKING HOUR REF 145.032A LANGE SOHNE ZEITWERK REF 145.032

    A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Striking

    SOLD

    The A. Lange & Sohne – Zeitwerk Striking Time represents one of the most spectacular contemporary watches made in the last decade. Building upon the already impressive ‘time only’ Zeitwerk originally introduced in 2009, the Striking Time placed Lange in a league of their own.

    The Brand

    Saxony’s meteoric rise and fall lead to the eventual creation of A. Lange & Söhne, founded by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1845. The foundations of German watchmaking can be attributed to both Lange and his mentor Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes. Sadly, the company A. Lange & Söhne was expropriated after World War II as a result the brand disappeared. In 1990, Walter Lange, Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s great-grandson, ventured to resuscitate the brand. For the second time, a watch manufactory named A. Lange & Söhne, was built from scratch in Glashütte. The brand is now known to have created some of the most appreciated complications in the industry through its unique design language and master engineering.

    The origins of the Zeitwerk

    The renowned architect Gottfried Semper was presented with the opportunity to build the Dresden Opera House, upon accepting this task, he was faced with a dilemma. A livid King Frederick Augustus II of Saxony noticed that most of his fellow patrons would tend to use the striking mechanism found in their pocket watches in order to tell time, often disturbing the performance. The modern-day equivalent of a phone ringing at a theatre. As a result, King Frederick Augustus II requested for an efficient solution, a large clock for the auditorium was a must … in order to satisfy the King’s request of displaying a large clock for the Auditorium, Semper turned to master-watchmaker Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes, who in turn was instrumental in Ferdinand Adolph Lange formation. The ingenious method of using a mechanical digital clock that would turn every hour and every five minutes through two rotating barrels, not only solved the issue, it also allowed for the entire auditorium to tell time with ease. Gutkaes, impressive creation left a profound impact on the then young Ferdinand A. Lange.

    Our Example

    In the past, the concept of the mechanical digital watch was implemented on several occasions but never in a reliable manifestation. Originally introduced in 2014, the reference 145.032 features a 44.2mm pink gold case and is powered by the highly acclaimed calibre L043.2. This particular reference is an evolution of the original ‘time-only’ Zeitwerk which was introduced in 2009. The difference being the striking time, which is capable of striking both the hours and quarters. The introduction of the Zeitwerk was a turning point for the rather conservative brand, from a design perspective very few brands successfully achieved this harmonious feature of having both digital jumping hours and minutes, the only other example that comes to mind is the F. P. Journe Vagabondage II. What both of these watches have in common is a rather short power reserve. The energy needed to achieve an instantaneous ‘flick’ of the digital hours and minutes is rather high. The ZeitBrücke (time bridge) which indicates both the hours, minutes, and seconds is made out of untreated German silver, the left-hand side is used for the hours, the right-hand side is used for the minutes, and the sweeping 60 second counter is found at the 6o o’clock position. The power reserve found is found at 12 o’clock, interestingly there is a gong that circles the periphery of the entire dial along with strikers found at the eight and four o’clock markers. A high chime is used for each quarter and a deeper chime for the hours. In order to enter stealth (silent) mode, there is a decoupling clutch found at 4 o’clock in the form of an external button. In order to set the time the crown found at 2 o’clock is solely used for timekeeping adjustments.

    The Movement

    The movement found on this mechanical marvel is the manual wound L043.2 which consists of 78 jewels and 528 parts. The tremendous force needed to advance the discs is delivered by a patented mainspring barrel, and the precise timing is controlled by a patented constant-force escapement. The use of a constant force mechanism allows for the jumping minutes and hours to work flawlessly. Prior to the seconds hitting the sixty-second mark, the minute disc jitters slightly as it is ‘fully’ wound, upon the second hand hitting the sixty-second marker, the disc ‘automatically’ changes as the remontoir unwinds. The Steel hammers are finished to the highest standard through the use of black polish along with hand-finished chamfering. They do not appear as a distraction on an already busy dial due to the way they seamlessly blend in with the white gold dial.

    The striking hour mechanism uses a twin stacked snail cam that has three prongs to drive the quarters and the other features a single prong for the hours, the process resets itself every 60 minutes.

    The Set

    This rose gold Zeitwerk Hour Strike comes with its original box, papers, and supporting materials.

    Brand: A. Lange & Sohne
    Model: Zeitwerk – Hour Strike 
    Movement: L043.2
    Case Diameter: 44.2mm 
    Year: 2018
    Box & Papers: Full Set 
  • Out of Stock Daniel Roth ChronographDaniel Roth 1

    Daniel Roth Chronograph

    SOLD

    The name Daniel Roth still causes furore amongst collectors for reasons that are known to most. In his quest to become a recognised watchmaker, Daniel Roth completed his technical apprenticeship in Nice, before moving to the epicenter of watchmaking, Vallée de Joux. The revered school in Le Sentier and a seven-year period with Audemars Piguet laid the foundations of Roth’s craft. When the Chaumet Brothers, the then owners of Breguet, were attempting to revamp and restore the glory days of Breguet, they turned to Daniel Roth. Before commencing his work at Breguet, Daniel Roth first went back to watch school in Le Sentier for a year to get a solid technical and academic base in complications and spent an entire year studying Breguet archives. Fourteen years later, Roth, not only brought back the glory days for Breguet, he created some of the most specular watches since Abraham Louis Breguet’s time.

    The end of the Chaumet tenure and allowed Daniel Roth to pursue ambitions of his own, in 1989, Daniel Roth decided to establish his own manufacture. The rise of the independents was almost renaissance like Roth was one of the pioneers in this newfound era of ‘freedom’, other honourable names such as Svend Andersen, Franck Muller, F. P. Journe, Roger Dubuis played a crucial role in allowing this movement to flourish. Interestingly, Roth was able to carve out his own design language that made most of his pieces instantly recognisable. There were subtle cues and nods to Breguet’s work in his designs although what made Roth’s instantly distinguishable was his double-ellipse case, the difference polished facets found on the case, and the unique construction of the case was ahead of its time.

    The relatively young brand paired with its eponymous founder, Daniel Roth, had grand ambitions. In order to realise this, the brand accepted an external investment, which resulted in Daniel Roth being sidelined to an extent, similar to that of Roger Dubuis. In 2001, the Daniel Roth brand was sold to the Bvlgari Group and eventually morphed under the name. This resulted in Daniel Roth losing the right to use his own name for his future project.

    Our Example

    This double-ellipse stainless steel Daniel Roth measures 41mm x 38mm in diameter and 11.40mm in thickness. The unique shape of the modernised case along with the addition of the downward slopping lugs allows this ‘large’ sized Daniel Roth to offer unparalleled comfort on the wrist. The dial features a sharply executed pinstripe guilloché pattern, which complements the light, brushed chapter ring with roman numerals. The time only function can be easily distinguished from the chronograph complication due to the variety of the hands. The sub-dials found at both 3 and 6 o’clock are solely used for the 30 minute and 12 hour chronograph counters, the larger anchor shaped hand found at 12 o’clock is used for the seconds, once the chronograph is activated. The use of arrow-shaped hands are used to indicated the hours and minutes and the sub-dial placed at the 9 o’clock marker is used as a 60-second counter. The dial is signed “DANIEL ROTH” at 12 o’clock and “SWISS MADE” at 6 o’clock, the individual number of the watch is placed on the case-back. Additionally, the outer dial features 12 luminova plots found above the roman numerals.

    The Movement

    The automatic movement signed Daniel Roth, is adjusted to five positions and features thirty-one jewels. The calibre 400 is based off the legendary El Primero, it is argued that when the El Primero was first introduced it was ahead of its time, not only did it possess a fully integrated (non-modular) full rotor self-windering chronograph, it was also a high-frequency movement 36’000 vph and remained remarkably thin.

    Brand: Daniel Roth
    Model: 247
    Movement: Calibre 400, El Primero
    Case Diameter: 41mm x 38mm
    Year: 2001
    Box & Papers: Full Set 

  • Out of Stock De Bethune DB25 Starry VariusDe Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Watch4Moi

    De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius

    SOLD

    In 2002, De Bethune was founded by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet. Prior to that, Flageollet, co-founded THA society with François-Paul Journe, the company was tasked with creating movements for other notable brands. Watchmaking runs in Flageollet’s blood he represents the fourth generation of the Flageollet family to become a watchmaker. Since its inception De Bethune successfully respected traditions of old whilst being at the forefront of technical innovations, as a result, the brand boasts some of the most impressive calibres made to date. Apart from the impressive calibres, De Bethune does not shy away from the fusion of two different worlds, the Maestri Art DW5 Armilia and Dream Watch 6 are fine examples of the artisanal know-how tied into Haute horology. 

    The DB25 represents what De Bethune stands for, innovative, creative and neo-contemporary design code. Originally introduced in 2018 the DB25 stood out due to its ergonomic 42mm grade 5 polished titanium case. In classic De Bethune fashion the signature hollowed lugs were used, a major update is found in the case to lug connectivity. In the past the lugs would extend from the lower part of the case, they now seamlessly exit from the middle part of the case. The overall case measures a modest 8.8mm making this particular reference one of the most wearable De Bethune’s at the time. 

    The Dial

    The star of the show, no pun intended, lies within the dial of the DB25 Starry Varius. The vibrant blue centre dial is crafted out of titanium. The arduous task of achieving such a dial is carried out in several phases. At the base, the grey titanium base metal is extensively polished and then mirror polished. The dial is then treated with a protective lacquer coating. The dial is then delicately oven blued, till the right shade of blue is achieved. A second layer of lacquer is then applied, the stars (pin like spherical heads) are then perforated throughout the dial, the end result is simply breathtaking. The concaving silver-tone outer dial offers a degree of contrast. The classical blue roman numerals and Breguet hands are a nod to De Bethune’s neo-contemporary design philosophy. Additionally, each hour is further marked by golden studs found just above the roman numerals. 

    The movement

    This manually wound DB25 Starry Varrius is powered by calibre DB2005, the movement features twin barrels designed to reduce friction and efficiently transmit a maximum of energy to the escarpment. The movement is finished to an exceptional standard with contrasting techniques found throughout the movement such as hand-chamfered and polished steel parts. The calibre boasts an impressive 6-day power reserve. The elusive titanium balance wheel features a balance-spring with a flat terminal curve, protected by the triple pare-chute system. 

    Brand: De Bethune
    Model: DB25 – Starry Varius 
    Movement: DB DB2005
    Case Diameter: 42mm x 8.80mm
    Year: 2021
  • Out of Stock Cartier Tank a Guichet CPCPCartier Tank a Guichet 15

    Cartier Tank Guichet

    SOLD

    Parisian Jeweller, Cartier, is known to have made some of the most captivating watches by integrating fascinating shapes within cases, challenging the usual status quo of classical round watches. One of Cartier’s most iconic collections is the Tank and was originally designed by Louis-Joseph Cartier, the grandson of Louis-François Cartier, in 1917. The inspiration behind such a bold design is thought to have come from the Renault FT-17 tank, according to various sources the initial prototype was donated to General John Pershing the commander of the American Expeditionary Forces in Europe during WWI. The visionary, Louis Cartier, was able to ensure that Cartier’s were somewhat instantly recognisable through a consistent design code in the form of the railway style minute track, roman numerals, blue steel Breguet hands and the cabochon-cut sapphire crown. 

    It is important to highlight the significance of Edmond Jaeger who was instrumental in Cartier’s success.  Thanks to Jaeger’s ingenuity, wristwatches were able to flourish, as he understood the importance of compressing calibres. The partnership between Louis Cartier and Edmond Jaeger dates back to 1907, according to Francesca Cartier Brickell, a direct descendent of Louis-François Cartier and the Author of The Cartier’s, the partnership gave Cartier a fourteen-year exclusivity on the movements produced by LeCoultre in Switzerland. It is estimated that by 1919 Cartier only produced 6 Tanks and gradually ramped up production to 100 pieces per annum by the mid to late1920’s. As the economy stymied, the Wall Street Crash of 1929, took centre stage and caused Cartier (amongst others) great difficulty. As a result, Cartier attempted to increase their sales by revamping their offering as a result the Tank à Guichet was introduced. 

    The birth of the Tank à Guichets

    The Tank à Guichets was originally introduced in 1928 and undoubtedly inspired by the Tank Louis Cartier. The case mimics that of the Tank Louis Cartier although the majority of the dial is covered by a sheet of brushed gold. The two small Guichets (French for Windows) are used to tell the time, the upper window is used for the jumping hours and the lower scale is used for the minutes. The early Tank Guichets are thought to be exceptionally rare. The reference was largely nonexistent in Cartier’s catalogue up until 1996, whereby Cartier released a total of six Tank à Guichets split across three platinum and three yellow gold examples, they are easily distinguishable due to the unique positioning of the crown at 12 o’clock. In rather quick succession, Cartier reintroduced a platinum limited edition of 150 examples for their 150th Anniversary in 1997, the cabochon-cut crown is now placed at 3 o’clock. 

    Our Example

    This example of the Tank à Guichet was originally introduced in 2006 and is limited to 100 examples, it marks one of the rare occasions whereby the rose gold variant is rarer than its platinum equivalent. The 18-carat rose gold case measures 27.5 mm. x 40 mm and sports the traditional cabochon-cut crown at 3 o’clock. Most case backs on the CPCP collection, apart from the platinum variants, feature sapphire case backs, however, the Tank à Guichet does not feature an open case back on any of its variants. The solid rose gold case back is signed Cartier, Mécanique, water-resistant, followed by the four traditional all marks and Swiss made. 

    The Movement

    The Tank Guichet is powered by a manual wound 9752 MC, based on a Piaget ébauche, more specifically the 430P. The movement is revered for its thinness measuring just 2.1mm in height and features a respectable power reserve of roughly 40 hours. 

    Brand: Cartier
    Model: Tank à Guichets, 2817
    Movement: 9752 MC
    Case Diameter: 27mm x 40mm
    Year: 2006
    Box & Papers: Full Set, Cartier CPCP Box and Paper. 
  • Out of Stock Cartier Tank a Vis CPCP frontCartier Tank a Vis CPCP 1

    Cartier Tank à Vis

    SOLD

    As consumer preferences shifted the importance of pocket watches wained and the wristwatch watch, a relatively new concept that was originally introduced in 1904, took centre stage. In order for wristwatches to cement their importance, they had to become far more useable in different circumstances. Making a wristwatch waterproof would open an entirely new dimension of usability and practicality. 

    The introduction of the Tank Étanche in 1931 marked the first waterproof Cartier wristwatch made. In doing so, Cartier did not compromise on their usual rectangular case instead opting to use four visible screws on the bezel led to the watch being waterproof. 

    The Tank à Vis essentially pays homage to the Tank Étanche and was reintroduced within the CPCP collection. The bezel matching that of 1931 with the four visible screws on the corner of each bezel. During the CPCP era, this particular reference housed several complications: time only, dual-time and heure vagabond. The time only variant was made available in yellow gold and platinum, with the latter having a closed case back. 

    This platinum Tank à Vis is thought to be rather rare, platinum cases were usually the least produced during the CPCP era. The case is reminiscent of the original Tank circa 1917. The use of visible working screws is a design feature rarely used by Cartier, most bezels appear to be smooth and screwless. The polished frame-like bezel, accentuates the entire bezel and case, resulting in a step bezel effect. The polished facets of the dial contrast rather well with the brushed side profile of the case. The case measures 27mm x 31mm, with a lug to lug length of 39mm. The heft of the platinum case remains balanced on the wrist due to the rather thin profile of the case, 8mm. The rounded lugs also enhance the wearability of the piece. The brushed solid caseback is only found on platinum examples within the CPCP collection, the caseback features three traditional hallmarks. 

    Dial

    The 18-carat white gold dial features the traditional Cartier Paris signature. The at the centre of the dial is the classic rose motif that gradually reshapes itself into traditional guilloché, it is believed that this was inspired by vintage Cartier clocks. The black roman numerals are printed onto the dial and shaped according to the space left on the periphery of the dial. The blue steel hands provide a contrast that accentuates the legibility of the timepiece and interestingly match that of the crown. 

    Movement

    The manual wound calibre 437MC is found in this reference, which is based on a Piaget ébauche.  The bridges are decorated with the Cartier interlocking double-C motif, the blue C on the balance wheel is a lovely touch. 

    Brand: Cartier
    Model: Tank à Vis, 2485E
    Movement: 437 MC
    Case Diameter: 27mm x 31mm
    Year: NOS, Kuwait not dated.
    Box & Papers: Cartier Signed box & Unsigned Papers
  • Out of Stock LAURENT FERRIER ECOLE ONE OF FIVELAURENT FERRIER RUTHENIUM HANDS ANNUAL CALENDAR

    Laurent Ferrier School Piece

    SOLD

    Founded in 2008 Laurent Ferrier took the watchmaking world by storm with the introduction of a tourbillon escapement with two balance springs mounted at 180°, in quick succession the brand was awarded one of the most prestigious awards in watchmaking (Grand Prix GPHG for the Best Men’s Watch circa 2010) for the Galet Classic Tourbillon. Respecting traditions of old is a trait found in most of Laurent Ferrier’s and results in a neo-classical style. 

    The current collection of Laurent Ferrier can be segregated into five core collections: classic, école, square, grand sport, and bridge. The école collection is a fusion of both the classic and square models, it essentially pays due reverence to a time when watchmakers converted pocket watches into wrist-worn timepieces. 

    This 40mm stainless steel Laurent Ferrier Annual Calendar School Piece ‘Vintage’ is limited to just 5 examples and incorporates the brand’s contemporary vintage style flawlessly through a first-time opaline yellow gold-toned dial. Inspired by the champagne dials of the 1950-1960s, apart from the dial, the complication itself and overall layout is undoubtedly reminiscent of certain Vacheron Constantin’s from that particular era.  

    The yellow gold-toned opaline dial, features ruthenium-treated Assegai hands to indicate the hour and minute, a guilloched sunken sub-second indicator is found at 6’o’clock in similar fashion the small baton hand is also treated in ruthenium. A stark contrasting white central hand points to the date on a scale of vintage-style Arabic numerals. The day and month appear in two beveled apertures found just above the Laurent Ferrier -Geneve signature. Annual Calendars usually result in an overly cultured dial, due to the unique typography and placement of the date, day, and month indications results in an uncluttered dial.  

    The manual wound calibre LF126.01 is exposed through a sapphire caseback. The finishing of the ruthenium-treated movement includes traditional côtes de Genève, circular graining on the mainplate, manually chamfered angles and polished screw heads. Through the gold gear train and typography, the movement has an element of contrast similar to the dial, although somewhat inverted. The polished long blade click ratchet, found just above the barrel, is mirror polished and displays a rounded-off finish. The bonnet styled case back results in the caseback having no visible screw heads. The movement also displays a power reserve through a dashboard looking gauge, the movement is capable of delivering 80 hours of power. 

    Brand: Laurent Ferrier
    Model: LCF025.AC.J2B
    Movement: LF126.01
    Case Diameter: 40mm
    Year: 2021
    Box & Papers: Full Set 
  • Out of Stock Joken Titanium frontRUSSIAN WATCHMAKING CHAYKIN

    Konstantin Chaykin Joker Ti

    SOLD

    Russian maverick-watchmaker, Konstantin Chaykin, wristmon collection was originally introduced in 2017 and caused an instant buzz. This second generation Joker is limited to 88 examples and features one off titanium case. 

    The Origins of the Wristmon

    It is hard to fathom that a scant three years ago Basel World was the event of the horological calendar. Retailers and horophiles were feverish with anticipation for the novelties that were debuted at each Basel World. Behind all this mayhem, besides a forgotten staircase, somewhat far from the glamorous halls of Basel World was a rather small area dedicated to Independent Watchmakers. A lackluster showing in 2017 for the larger brands resulted in newfound recognition for a certain independent watchmaker named Konstantin Chaykin. 

    Chaykin is currently the only Russian watchmaker admitted to the prestigious Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (ACHI) and served as president of the Académie from 2016 till 2019. The tremendous upheavals that Russia has endured over the last two centuries have left its watch industry in a recondite state. Not only is Chaykin a highly respected watchmaker, he also acts as a mentor for up and coming talent who would without his philanthropy not be given a chance. Above it, all Chaykin is a patriot who prides his “Made in Russia” seal above everything else. Whereas many other new unestablished brands would have relied on the crutch of “Swiss Made” for legitimacy, Chaykin was confident enough in his creations to forgo the designation. According to Chaykin, Swiss brands produce rather simplistic standard production perpetual calendars, whereas the Russian maverick creates watches taking into consideration the Hebrew and Islamic calendar, as well as the movements that determine the date of the Orthodox Easter.

    We encourage you to read this article for more information on the origins of the Wristmon Collection 

    The Joker Returns 

    Since then the Wristmon collection has been at the epicenter of the brand and is often cited as their best seller. This specific wristmon is named the Joker a play on the relatively obnoxious side of the luxury watch industry. Prior to this creation some of Chaykin’s creations have gone relatively unnoticed. The usual perpetual calendars found in traditional watchmaking have been enhanced and adapted to different religious calendars a feature rarely seen in modern watchmaking, such is the ingenuity of Chaykin. The Joker could essentially be a parody, that inadvertently propelled the brand Konstantin Chaykin on the map of independent watchmaking. The importance of both the first and second series of the Joker cannot be understated. This edition was introduced shortly after the first generation steel Joker limited to 99 examples. 

    The dial is a work of art, the timekeeping measures are denoted through the use of two independent discs (eyeballs). The right-hand side is used for the minutes whereas the left-hand side is used for the hours. The overall expression of the dial remains dynamic and ever changing. Behind the jovial expression’s of the dial lies the artisanal side of the dial through a relief design guilloche inspired by jeweller Carl Faberge. The nose guilloche was created by Chaykin specifically for this edition. The textured moon phase (the tongue) is displayed through a red frame with a contrasting grey background.

    The brushed titanium case measures 42mm and 13.70mm in thickness and weighs considerably less than its predecessor. The bezel features the name of the wristmon, Joker, in rectangular frames, similar to playing cards. Additionally, triangular dimples are found throughout the bezel, though they serve no purpose, they increase the depth of the bezel. The dual crowns are finished in a similar fashion, the one found on the right hand-side is used for the timekeeping requirements and the left hand crown is used to advance the moon phase. The closed case back is signed Joker – Made in Russia – Konstantin Chaykin – Titanium. The centre piece of the case back is frosted and features the letter J. 

    As much as the Wristmon collection provokes the Swiss, it ironically also leans on a modified swiss-made ETA 2824-2, renamed K07-0 by the brand. The additional module required for the discs results in an additional 8 jewels (61 parts) bring the total to 33 jewels. When fully wound the watch is capable of delivering 38 hours of power. 

    The Wristmon collection is unpredictable at best and Konstantin Chaykin keeps his collectors on their toes with cultural and innovative Wristmons. This example comes with both inner and outer boxes along with the original warranty and user manual. 

    Brand: Konstantin Chaykin
    Model: Wristmon – Joker Titanium
    Movement: K07-0
    Case Diameter: 42mm x 13.70mm
    Year: 2018
    Box & Papers: Full Set 

  • Out of Stock URBAN JURGENSEN COPENHAGENUrban Jurgensen 10

    Urban Jurgensen Ref 5

    SOLD

    Danish watchmaking was put on the map thanks to a select few, namely, the Jürgensen family. Founded in Copenhagen in 1773  by Jörgen Jörgensen, originally named Larpent & Jürgensen, the company gained a stellar reputation for creating impressive chronometers. Just twelve years after its creation the company was appointed as the official watchmaker to the Danish court.

    Undoubtedly talented, Jörgen Jörgensen, was an apprentice to Johan Jacob Lincke and eventually worked in Switzerland under Locle Jacques-Frédéric Houriet, who is described as being the founder of Swiss chronometry. Jörgen’s son, Urban Jürgensen, was equally as talented as his father, at the ripe age of 21 he was sent to Locle and gained valuable experience under Jacques-Frédéric Houriet. Urban, then went on the be an apprentice to both Abraham Louis Breguet and Ferdinand Berthoud, a luxury not afforded to many, such was his talent. In 1801, Urban entered a partnership with his father and was subsequently recognised by Danish royalty as an innovator. Urban’s books  Principes Généraux de l’Exacte Mesure du temps par les Horloges is regarded as a staple in many horological studies. The company remained in the Jürgensen family till 1912. 

    In 1979 Peter Baumberger a passionate collector and watchmaker acquired the brand.  Under the stewardship of Derek Pratt, as technical director, the brand would go back to its roots and attempt to create complicated pocket watches as well as wristwatches. The unfortunate demise of both Baumberger and Pratt lead to times of uncertainty for the brand, long time friend Dr. Helmut Crott, ensured the brand’s legacy would live on with the introduction of the dente escapement and eventual sale of the company in 2014. Rather fittingly brand was acquired by a Danish Private Investment Group marking the end of the Swiss ownership of the brand. 

    This reference 5 was produced in 1992-1995 and is limited to 150 pieces. It is believed to be segregated between 50 in platinum and 100 in gold. The ultra-slim case measures just 7.1mm in height and 36mm in diameter. The case features intricate details such as the teardrop lugs and the addition of a stepped bezel. The overall case would be best described as new old stock and displays strong hues of brownish-red patina across the case. 

    The dial is reminiscent of George Daniel’s work, the Roman numerals are printed onto a silver brushed chapter ring of the dial. The inner and outer dial features engined turned guilloche, the minute track, and the hour track is also separated by subtle guilloche. The 18-carat gold polished hands are reminiscent of Breguet and Daniels, the hour hand features polished inward bevels and is made of four different parts. 

    The nickel-finished lever movement features 35 jewels and an engine-turned 21K gold rotor. 

    Brand: Urban Jürgensen
    Model: Reference 5
    Movement: F. Piguet
    Case Diameter: 36mm
    Year: 1992
    Box & Papers: Full Set, NOS. 
  • AUDEMARS PIGUET STAR WHEEL YELLOW GOLD RARE MECHANICAL WRIST WATCHAUDEMARS PIGUET STAR WHEEL 25720BA

    Audemars Piguet Star Wheel

    RESERVED

    Today the DNA of Audemars Piguet lies within its most successful collection, originally, launched in 1972, the Royal Oak proved to be a shining star for the brand. Prior to Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei’s, Urwerk, lay the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel, originally, introduced in 1991. The then newly introduced ref. 25720 managed to respect traditions of old and also offer an avant-garde mystic.

    Star Wheel Origins

    The origins of the Star Wheel date back to 1655, upon the request of Pope Alexander VII, who was thought to have complained about the futile tick-tock sounds of the clocks in his sleeping quarters, requested for a silent solution. The Campani brothers were approached by Cardinal Barberini and tasked with the ‘honour’ of solving this rather farcical dilemma. The Campani family was one of innovators and at the forefront of the renaissance era. In doing away with the verge escarpment, Pietro Tommaso Campani, invented the silent escapement, by using a pendulum that could turn continuously without interruption. The nature of the business was different back in 1980-1990, watchmakers, were permitted a certain degree of freedom nowadays this would be hard to come by.  It is rumoured that the watchmakers at Audemars Piguet drew inspiration from the Campani brothers and it is difficult to argue otherwise. 

    Case

    The 18-carat yellow case of the reference 25720 remains true to Audemars Piguet’s heritage, the use of a step bezel accentuates the hand-engraved dial. The modestly sized 36mm case featured downward sloping lugs allowing for unparalleled comfort on the wrist. The contrasting use of both brushed and polished facets found on the case is reminiscent of older circular Audemars Piguet references. As much as the case embodies the classical side of Audemars Piguet the dial is a completely different story.

    Dial  

    The Star Wheel’s timekeeping requirements are denoted by three sapphire discs, each disc features four printed hour markers. The 8 sided star found on the axis of each disc is responsible for the gilding hours, the discs move gradually until the 60-minute mark is reached, thereafter the next disc restarts the entire procedure. The sober typography allows for a rather undisturbed view of the impressive hand-engraved 18-carat gold dial. Most examples found within reference 25720 feature traditional guilloché, this particular example highlights the artisanal craft of Audemars Piguet. The carefully hand-engraved dial adds another twist and dimension to an already fascinating reference. 

    The reference 25720 is powered by the calibre 2124 is based on the Jaeger LeCoultre ébauche 888. The movement is finished to a high standard and features an open case back highlighting the   Côtes de Genève. The movement boasts a 48-hour power reserve and adjusted to five positions. 

    Brand: Audemars Piguet
    Model: 25720BA
    Movement: Calibre 2224
    Case Diameter: 36mm, Yellow Gold
    Year: 1992
    Box & Papers: Original Box and Extract (Upon Request)

  • Out of Stock KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN JOKER WRISTMON SERIES LIMITED EDITION01MADE IN RUSSIA WATCHMAKING BUY PRE OWNED KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN

    Konstantin Chaykin Harlequin

    SOLD

    Russian maverick-watchmaker, Konstantin Chaykin, wristmon collection is the perfect antidote for those who are frankly bored of the complacency found in haute-horology. This stainless steel Harlequin Ventuno was originally introduced in 2021 and is limited to 18 examples. 

    The Origins of the Wristmon

    It is hard to fathom that a scant three years ago Basel World was the event of the horological calendar. Retailers and horophiles were feverish with anticipation for the novelties that were debuted at each Basel World. Behind all this mayhem, besides a forgotten staircase, somewhat far from the glamorous halls of Basel World was a rather small area dedicated to Independent Watchmakers. A lackluster showing in 2017 for the larger brands resulted in newfound recognition for a certain independent watchmaker named Konstantin Chaykin. 

    Chaykin is currently the only Russian watchmaker admitted to the prestigious Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (ACHI) and served as president of the Académie from 2016 till 2019. The tremendous upheavals that Russia has endured over the last two centuries have left its watch industry in a recondite state. Not only is Chaykin a highly respected watchmaker, he also acts as a mentor for up and coming talent who would without his philanthropy not be given a chance. Above it, all Chaykin is a patriot who prides his “Made in Russia” seal above everything else. Whereas many other new unestablished brands would have relied on the crutch of “Swiss Made” for legitimacy, Chaykin was confident enough in his creations to forgo the designation. According to Chaykin, Swiss brands produce rather simplistic standard production perpetual calendars, whereas the Russian maverick creates watches taking into consideration the Hebrew and Islamic calendar, as well as the movements that determine the date of the Orthodox Easter.

    We encourage you to read this article for more information on the origins of the Wristmon Collection 

    The Harlequin

    Since then the Wristmon collection has been at the epicenter of the brand and is often cited as their best seller. This specific wristmon is named the Harlequin Ventuno a play on the Italian commedia dell’arte. It is believed that the audience is amused, provoked, and entertained by Pantalone, Brighella, Pulcinella, Columbina, and of course, among many others, the Harlequin is perhaps the most popular mask of the Venetian comedy theatre. The whimsical nature of Harlequin can be compared to Chaykin’s subtle but provocative view on the Swiss watch industry. Harlequin Ventuno, Italian for twenty-one, is both a play on the twenty-first century and the iconic game of blackjack. 

    The dial is a work of art, the timekeeping measures are denoted through the use of two independent discs (eyeballs). The right-hand side is used for the minutes whereas the left-hand side is used for the hours. The ruthenium-coated mask found on the face is a nod to Harlequin’s mask. The textured moon phase (the tongue) is displayed through a red frame with a contrasting grey background. At the base of the silver-white relief décor guilloche is found and adds an element of excitement to the already impressive dial. 

    The brushed stainless steel case measures 42mm and 13.70mm in thickness. The bezel features the name of the wristmon, Harlequin, in rectangular frames, similar to playing cards. Additionally, triangular dimples are found throughout the bezel, though they serve no purpose, they increase the depth of the bezel. The dual crowns are finished in a similar fashion, the one found on the right hand-side is used for the timekeeping requirements and the left hand crown is used to advance the moon phase. The closed case back is signed Harlequin – Made in Russia – Konstantin Chaykin – Stainless Steel. The centre piece of the case back is frosted and features the famed face mask of Harlequin along with his jester’s hat on a background of diamond shapes. 

    As much as the Wristmon collection provokes the Swiss, it ironically also leans on a modified swiss-made ETA 2824-2, renamed K07-0 by the brand. The additional module required for the discs results in an additional 8 jewels (61 parts) bring the total to 33 jewels. When fully wound the watch is capable of delivering 38 hours of power. 

    The Wristmon collection is unpredictable at best and Konstantin Chaykin keeps his collectors on their toes with cultural and innovative Wristmons. 

    Brand: Konstantin Chaykin
    Model: Wristmon – Harlequin
    Movement: K07-0
    Case Diameter: 42mm x 13.70mm
    Year: 2021
    Box & Papers: Full Set 

  • Out of Stock URWERK 105URBUY PREOWNED URWERK UR105

    Urwerk Kryptonite

    SOLD

    In 1995, two creative minds met, Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei would then present their first wristwatch at Basel World circa 1997 signed Urwerk. The brand name originates from two sources, UR represents a town in Mesopotamia, which is believed to be the first place where our perception of time was folded. The latter part, Werk, means to work, created, evolve, shape, forge and arouse emotions in German. Urwerk’s proposition revolves around design, craftsmanship and haute horlogerie blending tradition with a futuristic vision that was rather bold at the time. 

    “If you have the passion, you have time” – Felix Baumgartner for The Hour Glass. 

    Felix Baumgartner comes from a family of watchmakers and worked closely with his father on restoring some of the most historically significant clocks known, such as the Campani brother’ night clock. The wandering hours complications date back to 1655, upon the request of Pope Alexander VII, who was thought to have complained about the futile tick-tock sounds of the clocks in his sleeping quarters, a silent solution was ‘necessary’. The Campani brothers were approached by Cardinal Barberini and tasked with the ‘honour’ of solving this rather farcical dilemma. The Campani family was one of innovators and at the forefront of the renaissance era. In doing away with the verge escarpment, Pietro Tommaso Campani, invented the silent escapement, by using a pendulum that could turn continuously without interruption. It is believed that Felix was exposed to this very clock in his father’s atelier. Martin Frei’s background in industrial design brings a breath of fresh air to the traditional design process of a watch, as a result, Urwerk designs possesses a clear cut dynamic Avant-garde mystic. 

    This Urwerk, UR-105 CT Kryptonite, was originally introduced in 2018 and represents a continuation of the CT Streamliner. As Martin Frei explains,

    “the Streamliner has a minimalist design with few frills and clean lines. In the initial drawings, I thought of the Empire State, the Chrysler and the Comcast buildings. That is why it has that vertical structure that seems to go on forever.”

    The Kryptonite offers a degree of discretion due to its matte AlTin (titanium) coated case and bonnet shaped latch.

    Dial

    The main aperture displays the hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve. The digital seconds display is found on the far left, the power reserve is found on the far right and the majority of the dial is composed of the openwork carousel system. The minute track is the only consistent part of the dial that remains unchanged throughout the power reserve. As the hour hand nears the 60-minute mark, the next satellite beings its journey on the minute track. At night the watch comes to life with its unique vibrant green lume. The dial also features a rather discrete engagement lever in the centre of the case, engaging this allows the user to explore the intricacies of the movement, similar to a bonnet on a car. 

    Movement

    The calibre UR 5.03 powers this particular reference, the movement features 52 jewels and beats at 4Hz. The satellite hours are driven by bronze beryllium Geneva crosses and an open-worked aluminium carousel. Two pneumatic turbines on the back govern the self-winding rate, which can be set with a lever. In the FULL position, the slightest movement of the wrist is harnessed to rewind the barrel spring. Turn the lever to STOP to disengage the self-winding system and wind up the UR-105 using the crown. An intermediate position, RED (for reduced) engages the turbines to dampen the winding rotor and avoid overstressing the mainspring if you are particularly active.

    Brand: Urwerk
    Model: UR-105 CT Kryptonite
    Movement: K07-0
    Case Diameter: Width 39.5mm; length: 53mm; thickness: 17.3mm
    Box & Papers: Full Set