This 18-carat rose gold Roger Dubuis hommage annual calendar, reference H40 5739, is limited to just 28 examples and represents Dubuis’ tact for making the complicated look relatively simple.

Independents

The landscape of independents as we know it today can be attributed to a select group of watchmakers, such as Roger Dubuis.  At the time most talented watchmakers worked for larger brands as full-time watchmakers or freelance movement makers. Only a handful of personalities were able to found their own brands and carve out a market of their own. Dubuis was at the forefront of a renaissance-like change, founding his eponymous brand in 1995.

Dubuis’ formation initially commenced with Longines in their after-sales department, thereafter Patek Philippe came calling. They identified Dubuis’ exceptional talent, which led to him joining the complications department whereby Dubuis was exposed to some of the most spectacular references made by Patek Philippe i.e. ref. 2499. Dubuis was slowly building a name for himself, similar to that of Svend Andersen who also worked at Patek Philippe and is the co-founder of AHCI – Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants. They would both go on to found their own respective brands. 

Our Example

This 40mm homage annual calendar encapsulates what the relatively young brand, Roger Dubuis, stood for. The source of inspiration behind Dubuis’ instantly recognisable designs, can be attributed to both a combination of experience at other prominent brands as well as unleashing the reins and allowing himself to pursue ‘freedom’. In turn, Roger Dubuis quickly gained appreciation amongst collectors and enthusiasts alike. Dubuis went to great lengths to ensure that Roger Dubuis offered an unparalleled Haute Horology, all his movements featured the Geneva Seal and the overall presentation of the watch was of a high standard, usually resulting in an extra solid gold case back, a nod to Patek Philippe. The Hommage collection houses some of Dubuis’ most iconic watches made since the brand was founded. 

The Dial 

The lacquered dial paired with applied 18-carat rose gold Breguet-styled numerals creates a subtle hint of contrast paired with refined elegance. The dual apertures found at 12 o’clock display the day and month underneath the dial is signed Roger Dubuis – horologer genevois. The slightly subdued sub-dial found at 6 o’clock is used for the day. At 6 o’clock the dial is signed “Bulletin d’Observatoire” indicating that this movement was tested for accuracy at the Besançon Observatory.

The case does not possess flamboyant properties such as the Sympathie, which does take away from the fact that the overall case is finished to a high standard. The different facets found on the case generally contrast between brushed and polished finishes. The engraved sapphire case-back allows for the exquisite movement to be seen. Interestingly, the four hallmarks are found on each lug, similar to certain Patek Philippe references. The crown is signed Roger Dubuis.

The Movement

This iconic ref. H40 is powered by the Calibre RD 5739, the movement features 25 jewels. Interestingly, Roger Dubuis opted to have all his movements certified by the Poinçon de Genève, the hallmark found on the bridge that holds the balance wheel, mimicking Patek Philippe which was the only brand to have this seal at the time. Leaving no stone unturned, Dubuis could have easily settled to have his movements COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certified instead he opted to seek the ultimate seal of accuracy in the “Bulletin d’Observatoire”.

Brand: Roger Dubuis
Model: H40 Symapthie Annual Calendar
Movement: RD 5739
Case Diameter: 40mm
Year: 1999
Box & Papers: no box or papers

This 18-carat rose gold Roger Dubuis hommage annual calendar, reference H40 5739, is limited to just 28 examples and represents Dubuis’ tact for making the complicated look relatively simple.

The watch exhibits minimal signs of wear, with no notable scratches or concerns.