This 18-carat rose gold 37mm Roger Dubuis Time Only is one of twenty-eight examples made. The avant-garde case design of the Sympathie paired with a glossy, enamel-like, off-white dial makes this particular example compelling. 

Independent Formation

The landscape of independents as we know it today can be attributed to a select group of watchmakers, such as Roger Dubuis.  At the time most talented watchmakers worked for larger brands as full-time watchmakers of freelance movement makers. Only a handful of personalities were able to found their own brands and carve out a market of their own. Dubuis was at the forefront of a renaissance-like change, founding his eponymous brand in 1995.

Dubuis’ formation initially commenced with Longines in their after-sales department, thereafter Patek Philippe came calling. They identified Dubuis’s exceptional talent, which led to him joining the complications department whereby Dubuis was exposed to some of the most spectacular reference made by Patek Philippe i.e. ref. 2499. Dubuis was slowly building a name for himself, similar to that of Svend Andersen co-founder of AHCI – Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants. 

Design

The source of inspiration behind Dubuis’ instantly recognisable designs, can be attributed to both a combination of experience at other prominent brands as well as unleashing the reins and allowing himself to pursue ‘freedom’. In turn, Roger Dubuis quickly gained appreciation amongst collectors and enthusiasts alike. Dubuis went to great lengths to ensure that Roger Dubuis offered an unparalleled Haute Horology, all his movements featured the Geneva Seal and the overall presentation of the watch was of a high standard, usually resulting in an extra solid gold case back, a nod to Patek Philippe. The Sympathie collection houses some of Dubuis’ most iconic watches made since the brand was founded.

Our Example

The S37 represents one of the finest time-only Roger Dubuis made, the enamel-like dial paired with applied 18-carat rose gold Roman numerals creates a subtle hint of contrast paired with refined elegance. At 12 o’clock the dial is signed “ROGER DUBUIS – horloger genevois” the décalque used on the dial appears to be stark black. Similarly, the ever-elegant minute track features similar characteristics, along with five-minute intervals found above the applied hour markers. At 6 o’clock the dial is signed “Bulletin d’Observatoire” indicating that this movement was tested for accuracy at the Besançon Observatory. Leaving no stone unturned, Dubuis could have easily settled to have his movements COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certified instead he opted to seek the ultimate seal of accuracy in the “Bulletin d’Observatoire”.

The case possesses flamboyant properties, an area of difficulty lay in creating a sapphire that would follow the grooves of the case. Due to the high costs associated with production, the sapphire was eventually phased out for a traditional rounded shape as Roger Dubuis’s influence waned. The different facets found on the case generally contrast between brushed and polished finishes. The sapphire case-back allows for exquisite movement to be seen. Interestingly, the four hallmarks are found on each lug, similar to certain Patek Philippe references. The crown is signed Roger Dubuis.

The movement found in this 18-carat gold S37 is derived from the Lemania 8810 ébauche, internally named the RD 57. The Lemania 8810 ébauche was one of the most reliable calibres made at the time and allowed for other complications to be integrated within the movement.

Brand: Roger Dubuis
Model: S37
Movement: RD 57
Case Diameter: 37mm / Rose Gold
Year: Circa 1999
Box and Papers: Watch Only 

This 18-carat rose gold 37mm Roger Dubuis Time Only is one of twenty-eight examples made. The avant-garde case design of the Sympathie paired with a glossy, enamel-like, off-white dial makes this particular example compelling.