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Daniel Roth GMT

Daniel Roth

SOLD
The name Daniel Roth still causes furore amongst collectors for reasons that are known to most. In his quest to become a recognised watchmaker, Daniel Roth completed his technical apprenticeship in Nice, before moving to the epicenter of watchmaking, Vallée de Joux. The revered school in Le Sentier and a seven-year period with Audemars Piguet laid the foundations of Roth’s craft. When the Chaumet Brothers, the then owners of Breguet, were attempting to revamp and restore the glory days of Breguet, they turned to Daniel Roth. Before commencing his work at Breguet, Daniel Roth first went back to watch school in Le Sentier for a year to get a solid technical and academic base in complications and spent an entire year studying Breguet archives. Fourteen years later, Roth, not only brought back the glory days for Breguet, he created some of the most specular watches since Abraham Louis Breguet’s time.

Know more

The name Daniel Roth still causes furore amongst collectors for reasons that are known to most. In his quest to become a recognised watchmaker, Daniel Roth completed his technical apprenticeship in Nice, before moving to the epicenter of watchmaking, Vallée de Joux. The revered school in Le Sentier and a seven-year period with Audemars Piguet laid the foundations of Roth’s craft. When the Chaumet Brothers, the then owners of Breguet, were attempting to revamp and restore the glory days of Breguet, they turned to Daniel Roth. Before commencing his work at Breguet, Daniel Roth first went back to watch school in Le Sentier for a year to get a solid technical and academic base in complications and spent an entire year studying Breguet archives. Fourteen years later, Roth, not only brought back the glory days for Breguet, he created some of the most specular watches since Abraham Louis Breguet’s time.

The end of the Chaumet tenure and allowed Daniel Roth to pursue ambitions of his own, in 1989, Daniel Roth decided to establish his own manufacture. The rise of the independents was almost renaissance like, Roth was one of the pioneers in this newfound era of ‘freedom’, other honourable names such as Svend Andersen, Franck Muller, F. P. Journe, Roger Dubuis played a crucial role in allowing this movement to flourish. Interestingly, Roth was able to carve out his own design language that made most of his pieces instantly recognisable. There were subtle cues and nods to Breguet’s work in his designs although what made Roth’s instantly distinguishable was his double-ellipse case, the difference polished facets found on the case, and the unique construction of the case was ahead of its time.

The relatively young brand paired with its eponymous founder, Daniel Roth, had grand ambitions. In order to realise this, the brand accepted an external investment, which resulted in Daniel Roth being sidelined to an extent, similar to that of Roger Dubuis. In 2001, the Daniel Roth brand was sold to the Bvlgari Group and eventually morphed under the name. This resulted in Daniel Roth losing the right to use his own name for his future project.

Our Example

This double-ellipse stainless steel Daniel Roth measures 35 mm x 38 mm in diameter and 8.50 mm in thickness. The unique shape of the modernised case along with the addition of the downward slopping lugs allows this Daniel Roth to offer unparalleled comfort on the wrist. The dial features a sharply executed pinstripe guilloché pattern, which complements the light, brushed chapter ring with Breguet-esque numerals. The use of a monotone dial highlights the different finishing methods found on the dial, Daniel Roth’s dials can be compared to an artist’s canvas, he expressed and executed some of the most spectacular dials in his early years when he was closely associated with the brand. 

The time-only function can be easily distinguished from the dual-time complication due to the contrasting methods used. The dual time function is found at 12 o’clock with an inverted cyclops enhanced aperture, the function can easily be distinguished from the date found at 6 o’clock due to the GMT inscribed dial. The button found on the periphery of the case is used to advance the hours of the GMT. The time only relation function is segregated by classic arrow lume filled hands, a signature of the Hour Glass Era. This particular example was believed to have been sold in 1997 by the retailer Fagnola – Jolly Oro found in Torino, Italy. 

The Movement

The automatic movement signed Daniel Roth, is adjusted to five positions and features twenty-seven jewels. The relatively slim movement is believed to be an ébauche made by Girard Perregaux (GP 3000 / 3100). Notable for the use of ball bearings in order to eliminate the use of lubrication on the rotor and is thought to have increased the efficiency of the movement. Aesthetically, the calibre is finished to a high standard. The classic Côtes de Genève is found on both the 18-carat gold rotor as well as the base of the movement.

Brand: Daniel Roth
Model: S247.1
Movement: Calibre GP 3100
Case Diameter: 35mm x 38mm
Year: 1997
Box & Papers: Original Papers 

Specs

Brands: Daniel Roth
Size: 36 – 38mm
Style: Casual, Dress

The name Daniel Roth still causes furore amongst collectors for reasons that are known to most. In his quest to become a recognised watchmaker, Daniel Roth completed his technical apprenticeship in Nice, before moving to the epicenter of watchmaking, Vallée de Joux. The revered school in Le Sentier and a seven-year period with Audemars Piguet laid the foundations of Roth’s craft. When the Chaumet Brothers, the then owners of Breguet, were attempting to revamp and restore the glory days of Breguet, they turned to Daniel Roth. Before commencing his work at Breguet, Daniel Roth first went back to watch school in Le Sentier for a year to get a solid technical and academic base in complications and spent an entire year studying Breguet archives. Fourteen years later, Roth, not only brought back the glory days for Breguet, he created some of the most specular watches since Abraham Louis Breguet’s time.

Condition report

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